First steps to climbing (12): "a sound way of retreat"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

Hints to cragsmen – climbing down: With the exception of one or two famous ascents with the late O. G. Jones, all the writer's rock experience has been gained as the leader on the rope. During this long and still active climbing career numerous useful wrinkles have been learnt and, in this chapter, these practical aids can be mentioned. 

"A study in small footholds": Kern Knotts Crack - Great Gable.
Photo from G D Abraham, The Complete Mountaineer. 

Undoubtedly there are two outstanding and vastly important maxims of advice for the beginner-these are, firstly, climb slowly, and secondly, rely on the skilful use of the feet, not the hands. At the start there is an almost irresistible tendency to “rush” a steep stretch of difficult rock work. The idea is well expressed in the words so often used – "I want to get it over!" This is entirely wrong. "Slow but sure" must be the slogan of the safe climber.

Each movement should be carefully considered. Up to a certain point the balance may be perfectly preserved in relation to the available holds; then an apparently good hold for the fingers may tempt the cragsman to forsake the slow balance method. There may be no support ahead, and he will find himself hung up in such a position that return is, to say the least of it, ungraceful and unpleasant. 

Each forward move should be made with slow deliberation, a change of holds only being made when the new situation is proved sound and promises continuity. Moreover, it is a reliable rule not to push ahead up any excessively desperate place where return is impossible. Some supervening difficulty may necessitate descent. The safe leader always reckons on having a sound way of retreat open.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.