It has often been asked whether a knowledge of geology is any use in climbing. Authorities, mostly theorists, differ on this point, but the writer has found it of no service.
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| The crucial pitch on Moss Ghyll, Scafell - the lower figure is A D Godley, Fellow and Tutor of Magdalen College, Oxford. Photo by the Abraham Brothers (detail), reprinted in A Hankinson, Camera on the Crags. |
In many climbs with famous geologists the science has never asserted itself in any practical way. Loose structures certainly interest them most, and the fact that occasionally no stone has been left unturned in their efforts summitwards may prove trying to those below in a crumbling gully.
Truth to tell, loose sections on a mountain, big or little, may occur unexpectedly to the most skilled scientist, and the climber needs all his skill and care on such places. No thoughts can be spared for fossils or faults – only faults of judgment matter. Great discernment is necessary in the use of loose holds. The general plan is to distribute the weight as much as possible on as many holds as are available.
Loose rocks play strange tricks, and the beginner should, as far as possible, avoid notorious places. Large pieces as big as a cenotaph will frequently stand firm whilst one man mounts over them and the following climber may bring down the whole mass.
References
From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.
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