A meizanologist's diary (84)

19 November: as time travel isn’t specifically excluded by the terms and conditions of a Japan Rail Pass, I use mine to board the present-day Sakura 555 super-express. As you would expect, the Shinkansen hums at a near-relativistic speed down to Kyushu. Time starts to dilate at Kokura where we change to a battered blue Sonic limited express for the run down the coast. Deprived of onboard wifi, passengers have to look out of the windows.

Sonic at full tilt, courtesy of JR Kyushu

At every rural station we pass, the grass grows longer and longer on the abandoned platforms. And now the afternoon light is lengthening too. When the overhead electricity wires run out at Oita, I take to a one-man diesel railcar for the journey inland, along with scores of schoolchildren who just want to nod off into their anime-themed sports bags.

There’s one last glimpse of a Fuji-like peak against the sunset glow – could that be tomorrow’s mountain? – and then we’re heading into Kyushu’s darkest interior. There is no street lighting here because there are no streets to light.

Night has fallen by the time we arrive in Bungo-Taketa, a town that seems to hover somewhere in early Shōwa. Streetlights are sparse because nobody is on the street at 6 pm; there are no convenience stores, and the town’s only supermarket closed an hour ago. If you wanted to buy food for your hike tomorrow, then your chances would be Slim or None. 

Fortunately, in her estimable Hyakumeizan blog, Emma Goto warns of just this eventuality – thanks for the heads-up, Emma – and my ragged but capacious bergen already holds enough rations to get by with. At the same time, it’s heart-warming to know that places still exist that lie beyond Seven-Eleven’s supply chain. Long may they do so.

Glancing at the map over supper at the Marufuku restaurant – to be commended for its finger-lickin’ good chicken cuisine – I see that the Fuji-shaped peak which looked so handsome against the sunset isn’t even in the same massif as tomorrow’s mountain. I must have been looking at Yufu-dake. Goodness, I haven’t a clue about this region. Am I still in present-day Japan?