“A light grey felt hat is cool”

What ladies wear in the mountains: some hints from a hundred years ago

We raise our chapeau to Elise Wortley, who recently attempted Mont Blanc (4,805.59m) in period dress. Aiming to highlight women adventurers who achieved astonishing feats, Wortley started the climb in a bonnet, tweed dress and hobnailed boots, as worn by Henriette d’Angeville, who made the ascent in 1838. You can read more about Wortley’s venture on her own website or in her Financial Times article (subscription may be required).

"When climbing, the skirt ... must be looped up"
Illustration from the Badminton Library, Mountaineering

Just in case this retro vibe should catch on, we reproduce below the advice given on a “Climbing outfit for ladies” in the Badminton Library volume on Mountaineering, first published in 1892 and reprinted in 1901. The book was compiled by Clinton Thomas Dent, a medical man whose climbs included a first ascent of the Grande Aiguille du Dru. As a footnote reveals, though, he wisely deferred to “Mrs Jackson, Mrs Main and Miss Richardson” for the views set out here:

Women who climb should, like men, dress in such a manner that they are protected from extremes of either heat or cold. Every garment should be of wool, and the softer and lighter the material the better. The only exception to this latter point should be the skirt, and this will be found most serviceable if made of cloth, rough in texture and as thick as the wearer can get, provided it is not clumsy. A closely woven tweed is suitable. A small check pattern mends neatly if torn. Grey or brown are the most suitable colours for a climbing skirt; blue soon shows the marks of dust or stains. The skirt should be a plain walking skirt of an ordinary length, the broad hem turned outwards and with a deep border of stitching. Three yards round the hem will be found a good width for a skirt. A mackintosh bordering to the skirt is quite useless.

Mrs Main (née Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed) models a mountain skirt
Image courtesy of Women's Museum of Ireland

The pockets should be large and in definite places, one on either side and one at the back. They should be outside and flaps to button down. Two or more buttons are desirable on each flap, so that nothing may slip out when sleeping in huts. A small waterproof pocket in the skirt by the band is useful for carrying the bank notes current in Austria and Italy. The other pockets should be lined with sateen, and one can covered with mackintosh. When climbing the skirt must, whatever its length, be looped up, and therefore it is easy to have a skirt which, in the valleys or towns, does not look conspicuous. For looping up the skirt, the following simple plan is effective. An extra belt of strong ribbon is put on over the skirt, which is then pinned to it in fish-wife style. The length is arranged according to the requirements of the occasion. One safety: pin attaching the two sides and another fastening the back, the hem being pinned on to the outer belt, do the work. The safety pins, however, are apt to drag and tear the skirt. An equally good method of shortening the skirt is by an arrangement of loops and buttons. Strong tapes are well stitched up each seam inside the skirt, and also up the middle and back widths: each tape carries a large bone button and two tape loops not too low down. The tape gives more hold for the buttons, and prevents any of the material being torn out.

A rough cloth coat lined throughout with silk may taken in case of cold. A fairly thick Shetland shawl has many uses. It is very light and warm. Tied over the head in cold or windy weather, or in a hut at night, it is a great comfort.

Mrs Main in midwinter, probably on Piz Palu c.1898

The knickerbockers should be made of tweed, the band being lined with flannel or other woollen material. The tweed should match the skirt, and will then be found suitable either when worn, as formerly, under it, or, following the practice occasionally adopted, worn without the skirt, the latter being taken off before beginning the climb.

The bodice is an important part of the outfit, A soft grey flannel blouse, high in the neck, long in the sleeves, and loose, is the best for both heat and cold. The bodice should have breast pockets, one of them being suitable for carrying a watch.

A light grey felt hat is cool. A knitted helmet,which can be pulled over the whole head and face, the eyes only being uncovered, is a necessity in very cold weather. A large silk handkerchief is useful to tie the hat on in a high wind.

Mrs Main sets out on a winter expedition.
Image from True Tales of Mountain Adventure

Woollen stockings (one pair on, another pair in the knapsack), thick, watertight, nailed mountain boots, and cloth gaiter to button or to pull on in the Chamonix style (hooks and laces are apt to catch in a skirt are all essential. Putties, or spats and putties combined, are much to be recommended. Gloves should invariably be of wool, and of the shape worn by babies, the fingers being enclosed in a bag, and the thumb only having a separate casing. Let the gloves come well up the arms, and have at the very least two pairs with you on an expedition. A large safety hook and eye in each pair will enable them to be hung from the waist belt. A very fine woollen mask to protect the face is much pleasanter to wear than one of linen.

Lady alpinist and guide, c. 1906
Image from True Tales of Mountain Adventure

A more extensive outfit is required on a tour when access is not to be had to heavy luggage for several days. The climber may have to spend a few nights in the more civilised of the Alpine centres, or perhaps twelve hours may even be passed in such places as Geneva or Turin. It is necessary to be provided against such contingencies, and if a little thought and trouble are given to the matter, neither the weight nor the bulk of the extra garments necessary need be great.

Silk (only to be worn when not climbing) can be substituted for wool for the under-clothing, of which two complete changes are desirable, not including what is worn. A dark blue or grey silk blouse can be worn with the climbing skirt in the evenings, and a small dark felt hat, which will fold flat, and a pair of gants de suède will help to do away with the stamp of the climber. Leather soles, without any heel whatsoever, put to a pair of neat black laced shoes, will pack flat and take up very little room. The whole weight of the bundle (which can be tied up in a large silk handkerchief) need not exceed 4 1/2 Ibs., including such essentials as soap, a comb, pocket-handkerchiefs, and other small things which the experience of each climber will suggest.

References

C T Dent and other writers, The Badminton Library: Mountaineering, London and Bombay: Longmans, Green and Co, third edition, 1901. 

Mrs Aubrey Le Blond (also known as Mrs Main, Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed), True Tales of Mountain Adventure, London: T Fisher Unwin, 1906. 

You may also like: Alpine apparel in early modern Japan and Was Walter Weston a gear freak?

Victor de Beauclair’s last climb

Book review: Emil Zopfi’s new documentary novel recreates a tragic story from the Belle Époque of climbing and ballooning

But were they really a pair? Visitors who step into Zermatt’s churchyard see them at once – the twin headstones leaning tenderly towards each other, one for Irmgard Schiess (b.1903) and the other for Victor de Beauclair (b. 1874). Both died on 15 August 1929, “am Matterhorn”. Noting the age gap of almost three decades between this ill-fated rope team, most visitors just sigh, shake their heads and move on – leaving the question unanswered.

The gravestones of Irmgard Schiess and Victor de Beauclair

But not Emil Zopfi, a prominent Swiss writer on mountains and mountaineering. Taking as his challenge the almost complete lack of accessible public information about the couple – just try Googling them – he has recreated their lives and times in a documentary novel, Victors letzte Fahrt (Victor’s last climb). Along the way, he sheds plentiful light on the origins of ski-mountaineering, high-altitude balloon flying, and alpine climbing without guides.

Victor de Beauclair in 1898

Despite the French-sounding surname, Victor de Beauclair was born in Cantagalo, Brazil, where his father, an expatriate German doctor, had a practice. The family returned to Germany in 1878, settling in Freiburg im Breisgau, not far from the Swiss border. Zopfi suggests that this early deracination left de Beauclair somehow adrift – he never gave up his Brazilian passport, never married and never stayed long at any address.

In 1892, de Beauclair started his first year at Zurich University. His medical studies did not prosper, then or later. A glance at his alpinistic record suggests why. By 1896, de Beauclair had started to build up an impressive list of both summer and winter ascents. This was the year when he made the first ever ski ascent of a Swiss three-thousander, the Oberalpstock, with Wilhelm Paulcke, Peter Steinweg and Erwin Baur.

On the Oberalpstock in 1896:
From left to right: de Beauclair, Steinweg, Baur, Paulcke

Another notable first was the first ski traverse of the Bernese Oberland’s central glaciers, undertaken over four days in January 1897 with Paulcke and three more companions. Again, Paulcke was the moving spirit, having pioneered ski-mountaineering in the mountains around Freiburg. The geologist even designed his own improved ski binding for the Oberland tour – one of the book’s revelations is that modern alpine ski-touring was effectively invented in the Black Forest.

The Bernese Oberland traverse team:
From left to right: Paulcke, de Beauclair, Mönnichs, Ehlert, Lohmüller

As a member of this Freiburg-based group, de Beauclair soon became an acknowledged expert and evangelist (“Wanderprediger”) for ski-mountaineering. In 1899, he was elected into the Academic Alpine Club of Zurich, a club set up a few years before specifically for student alpinists who preferred to climb without professional guides. 

Two years later, de Beauclair helped to found the Skiclub Zürichs, serving as its first president – later he co-founded the Schweizer Skiverband, a national federation, too. And in 1902, in a neat twist on the guideless theme, he ran the first ski course for the Bergführer of Zermatt.

Pioneering a new mountain sport came with the inevitable nemesis. In January 1899, during a ski-tour on the Susten Pass, an avalanche overwhelmed Gustav Mönnichs and Reinhold Ehlert, two of de Beauclair’s companions on the Oberland traverse. De Beauclair spent several days that winter searching for them, but the bodies appeared only when the snow melted in June.

Yet it may have been a summer accident that more decisively changed the trajectory of de Beauclair’s career. In 1907, an afternoon storm trapped three prominent AACZ members near the Matterhorn’s summit, one of them dying during the forced overnight bivouac. Zopfi suggests that the accident helped to hasten de Beauclair’s drift away from the club’s orbit. 

In any case, he’d already made his final breach with Zurich University – without qualifying as a doctor – and he’d taken up a new form of high-altitude pioneering. In fact, de Beauclair’s first flight with his new gas-filled balloon “Cognac” had taken place as early as August 1906. A companion on two of these early flights was Heinrich Spoerry, the AACZ member who would perish on the Matterhorn the following summer.

"Cognac" at the "Eigergletscher" station, 1908

In 1908, “Cognac” lifted off from the meadows beside the Eiger rack-railway’s Eigergletscher station and landed the following day at Gignese in Italy. Depending on how one defines the term, this was the first transalpine flight by any kind of aircraft. Alas, the following year, the balloon was lost at sea after another transalpine flight, when de Beauclair had to ditch it in the Gulf of Genoa. This reverse didn’t stop him from co-founding a Zurich-based club that is still flying gas balloons more than a century later.

He kept climbing too. In 1911, he made a first ascent on the west face of the Mönch, one of the Bernese Oberland’s four-thousanders, in the company of the guide Fritz Steuri, who would later win fame with Maki “Yūkō” Aritsune on the Eiger’s Mittellegi Ridge. There was also a professional reason to focus on this region, since he was now working as the secretary of the Jungfraubahn rack-railway company. Then, all too suddenly, the Belle Époque was over.

Since records for the 1914-17 period are thin, it’s hard to say whether Victor de Beauclair had a good war. As a Brazilian national, he was exempt from the fighting. But many of his former climbing companions found themselves in uniform, whether in neutral Switzerland or in the armies of the warring powers. Several failed to return from the conflict, and those who did had experienced things that would forever put a distance between them and their former climbing partner.

When the smoke cleared, the world had changed. Balloons were “cold coffee”; now it was heavier-than-air craft, piloted by younger men, who made the dramatic flights over the Alps. But de Beauclair was still an acknowledged alpinist, and it was as a rope partner and ski tour leader that he got to know Irmgard Schiess and her twin sister, Herta (known to family and friends as Spatzi and Hatzi) together with their father, Erhard, also a keen mountaineer.

And so we come to 15 August 1929, when de Beauclair reached the summit of the Matterhorn with Herta, Irmgard and the guide Andreas Kohler. Descending in two rope pairs, the party was already within sight of safe ground when de Beauclair pulled on a loose rock and fell down the east face with his rope partner, Irmgard. “Once again the Sphinx of Zermatt has demanded her toll …” began the eulogy written by a friend and quoted in full by Zopfi.

It would have been a considerable feat just to ferret out the facts of de Beauclair’s life, of which the above is the barest summary. But Zopfi has done much more – he has fashioned these facts into a convincing narrative arc.

Writing in the dramatic present, and ranging boldly back and forth through time, he assembles a series of tableaux that gradually build up a portrait of the protagonist and other dramatis personae. Everything moves inexorably and logically towards that fatal rendezvous in Zermatt.

As in a well-crafted film, the focus changes constantly. Some scenes are recreated in exquisite detail, elsewhere an entire world war passes by in a couple of pages. In part, this zoom technique reflects the variety and variability of Zopfi’s sources – books, archives, genealogies, and conversations with descendant families – for the source materials are part of his narrative too.

In this, he is ahead of the game. At the very university once attended by Victor de Beauclair, a current professor of modern history calls for “a greater acknowledgement of authorial metadata in the writing of history” – in other words, historians should be more open about how they go about selecting and using their archives.*

This is exactly how Zopfi works. The author is present in his work, starting with an account of his own fateful encounter with the “Sphinx of Zermatt” in the summer of 1964. And so are his sources: take the scenes in the book’s early pages in which he recreates the Whitsun weekend of 1929 when de Beauclair led a ski-touring group that also included the Schiess twins. “And you, my young friend, will write up this trip,” says the fictional de Beauclair, clapping a young writer named Alfred Graber on the shoulder. Of course he will. For it is Graber’s memoir that Zopfi will tap for this scene, almost a century in the future.

Victors letzte Fahrt is the work of a master craftsman. Or Zopfi might perhaps prefer the analogy of a gifted route-finder, given that he spent many years at the extreme end of the Swiss climbing scene. The narrative technique is polished, and the action, as in all the best novels, driven by psychological insight. The book should be read by anybody interested in “how it was” within alpinistic circles during that faraway era.

After all that, may we still ask if Victor de Beauclair and Irmgard Schiess were really a pair? Suffice it to say that Zopfi addresses the question with the subtlety that the sources demand and allow. And circling back to those twin gravestones in Zermatt, he concludes the book with a thunderclap revelation. As to its nature, your reviewer isn’t saying. You’ll have to read the book for yourself ….

References

Victors letzte Fahrt (Victor’s last climb) is a biographical novel by Emil Zopfi, published in 2023 by AS Verlag, Zurich (269 pages, German language). It includes an appendix with a comprehensive chronology of Victor de Beauclair’s life, lists of persons and families involved, and a comprehensive bibliography.

*See epilogue in Martin Dusinberre, Mooring the Global Archive: A Japanese Ship and its Migrant Histories, Cambridge University Press, 2023.

About Emil Zopfi

Born in 1943 in the canton of Zurich, Switzerland, Emil Zopfi studied electrical engineering and worked as a development engineer and computer specialist at the Federal Institute of Technology (ETH) Zurich and in industry. His first novel was published in 1977. Since then, he has written several more novels, as well as crime stories, mountain monographs, radio plays, children's books, press articles and columns.

His subject matter includes mountains, nature and mountaineering, computers and technology, history, politics and autobiography. “Zopfi's work revolves around the self-awareness of people in extreme situations, including those arising from social and political issues” (Swiss Lexicon).

Together with his wife Christa, he has run creative writing seminars for thirty years and written books on this topic. Zopfi has received a number of awards for his works, including from the City and Canton of Zurich, the Swiss Schiller Foundation, the Swiss Young People's Book Prize, the Swiss Alpine Club, the Canton Glarus Culture Prizes and the King Albert I Mountain Award.

Like Victor de Beauclair, the subject of his recent documentary novel, Zopfi is a member of the Academic Alpine Club of Zurich, founded in 1896, and might be described as the unofficial doyen of its small but active arctic/mountain literature cadre.

“The attack was quite too dreadful for words”

Recent run-ins with a Norwegian eagle lend credence to an old report from the Maritime Alps

A young golden eagle has been killed after reportedly attacking and wounding at least four people, including a bike courier, in a large area of central and southern Norway, reports the Guardian. 

Copperplate by Gustave Roue in La Suisse illustrée (1872)

This strange episode recalls a tale told by the redoubtable alpinist and mountain photographer Mrs Aubrey Le Blond in her book Adventures on the Roof of the World (1907), a catalogue of mountain accidents and derring-do. The following excerpt comes from a chapter headed "Some terrible experiences":

To be bombarded by falling stones in the Alps is bad enough. To be hurled from one’s foothold by a flock of eagles seems to me even more appalling. Though on one occasion, when on the slopes of a bleak and rocky peak in Lapland, in company with my husband, a pair of eagles came screaming so close to us that we drove them away by brandishing our ice-axes and throwing stones at them, I did not till recently believe that there could be positive danger to a climbing party from an onslaught by these birds.

It was only a few weeks ago that taking up one of Messrs Newnes’ publications I came upon an account of a tragedy in the Maritime Alps caused by an attack from eagles. On applying to the editor of the magazine in question, he kindly allowed me to make some extracts from a striking article by Mons. Antoine Neyssel. This gentleman with a friend, Mons. Joseph Monand, was making a series of ascents in the Maritime Alps with Sospello as their headquarters. From here they took a couple of guides and got all ready for a climb on the following morning, 23rd July. During the evening the amazing news reached them that a postman, while crossing a high pass, had been attacked and nearly killed by eagles. They at once went into the cottage where the poor man lay unconscious on two chairs, a pool of blood beneath him and his clothes torn to ribbons. A few days later he died from the terrible injuries he had received.

Though much shocked at the sad event, the climbers believed that their party of four would be quite safe, for each man had an ice-axe and some carried rifles. So the next morning they set out, and, ascending higher and higher, reached the glacier and put on the rope. They had forgotten all about the ferocious birds when suddenly, as they traversed the upper edge of a crevasse near the summit of their peak, the leading guide stopped with an exclamation of horror. Close to them the ground was strewn with feathers and marked with blood, doubtless the spot where the postman was attacked.

They passed on, however, and remembering that they were a party of four, felt reassured. But soon after weird cries came to their ears from below, followed by the whirr and beating of great wings. Looking cautiously over the abyss, they saw a fight of eagles in progress; feathers flew in the air and strange sounds came out of the seething mass. It seemed to rise towards them, and in their insecure position on the edge of a crevasse, they were badly placed to resist an attack. The foot-hold was of frozen and slippery snow.

Suddenly the eagles burst up and around them. The guides immediately cut the rope and each person did what he could to save himself. “Wherever possible,” says Mons, Neyssel, “we simply raced over the frozen snow like maniacs. In another moment they dashed upon us like an avalanche. I heard a shot —I suppose Monand fired, but I did not: I do not know why.

“The attack was quite too dreadful for words. Speaking for myself, I remember that the eagles struck me with stunning force with their wings, their hooked beaks, and strong talons. Every part of my body seemed to be assailed simultaneously. It was a fierce struggle for life or death. Strangely enough, I remember nothing of what happened to my companions. I neither saw nor heard anything of them after the first great rush of the eagles. It is a miracle I was not hurled to death into the crevasse.

“Do not ask me how long this weird battle lasted. It may have been five or six minutes, or a quarter of an hour. I do not know. I grew feebler, and felt almost inclined to give up the struggle, when the blood began to trickle down my face and nearly blinded me. I knew that every moment might be my last, and that I might be hurled into the crevasse. Strangely enough, the prospect did not appal me. From this time onward I defended myself almost mechanically, inclined every moment to give up and lie down.

“I gave no thought to the guides and my poor friend Monand. If I am judged harshly for this, I regret it; but I could not help it. All at once I heard loud, excited voices, but thought that these were merely fantastic creations of my own brain. In a moment or two, however, I could distinguish a number of men laying about them fiercely with sticks, and beating off the eagles.”

The villagers, having watched the ascent through a telescope had come to the rescue and had saved the lives of the writer and his two guides. His poor friend, however, was dashed into the crevasse, at the bottom of which his body was found five days later.

References

Jon Henley, "Golden eagle killed in Norway after attack on toddler in farmyard", The Guardian, 9 September 2024.

Mrs Aubrey Le Blond (Mrs Main), Adventures on the Roof of the World, London: T Fisher Unwin, 1907.

Header illustration is from Alexandre Scheurer, "Aasfresser mit schlechtem Ruf: Der Bartgeier zwischen Mythos und Realität", Die Alpen, November 2019. The article mentions an alleged attack by a vulture: "The best known and by far the most frequently cited case is probably that of June 2, 1870 in the Bernese Oberland (M. A. Feierabend, Die Schweizerische Alpenwelt, 1873). At that time, a 14-year-old boy was violently attacked with wing flaps, claws and beak and was seriously injured in the skull, back and chest. After his recovery, he went to the Bern Museum, where he identified his attacker among the local birds of prey: an adult bearded vulture."

A meizanologist's diary (77)

7 April: “Today we will commit hanami,” says the Sensei. OK, maybe not her actual words, but that’s the gist. Borne on a warm south wind, the cherry blossom front has rolled into our city; hanami will not be denied. Don’t get me wrong: I’m all for cherry blossoms. After all, there’d be no little cherry trees without them. It's just the in-your-face evanescence that's vaguely unsettling. Couldn’t they last a bit longer? Or just get it over quicker?

Ineluctably, we find ourselves cycling across the city. Some kiloparsecs from home – it must be the hottest day of the year so far – we reach a distant river embankment. So distant that few people are about, although one family is already setting out a picnic under the trees. Not a single petal falls; we’re at peak hana.

This is an avenue of recently planted young trees – except for the pair at the end of the row, which were apparently rescued from somewhere else. Wizened and crooked, the two old trees lean towards each other like an elderly couple. Perhaps a young couple took their first kiss under them, suggests the Sensei. Not impossible, I reply, unsure where this exchange will lead.

We cycle back along the river, starting up a flurry of bank martins. Early summer is upon us, even if a sun halo overhead hints that the fine weather won't last. Closing on the town centre, we hit the core hanami scene. Citizens of all ages stroll under the luminous billows, their conversation hushed. Meanwhile, the scent of searing squid-on-stick wafts up from the temporary alleyway of booths set up on the river bank below. Still not a petal falls. 

On the way home, the streets are deserted: everybody is out appreciating the cherry trees. By chance, we pass a small temple. It advertises itself as a branch temple of the famous local “main mountain”. An open gate welcomes us into a courtyard filled with sunlight and a graciously spreading shidare-zakura. Nobody is about, and with every breath of wind, petals come scattering down from on high.

All too soon it’s time to board the train for KIX. The cherries bloom all the way down Lake Biwa. Dusk starts to fall as the Haruka slides through the badlands of southern Osaka. There’s one last glimpse of an empty playground, a dusty rectangle walled in by concrete blocks, and guarded left and right by two cherry trees in full flower, as if by a duo of Deva kings. For a moment I think I'm starting to understand hanami, and then the show is over for another year ....

 

A meizanologist's diary (76)

4 April (cont): The problem with meizanology is that you’re never quite done. On the way home from Iwagomori-yama, we decide to take in the cherry blossom on a famous rocky foreland at Tsuruga. The car is parked beside a nearby temple.

There a signboard catches my eye: it seems that Konzenji was founded by Monk Taichō in the eighth year of Tempyō (736). Now Taichō is a person of interest to meizanologists, as a couple of decades before founding Konzenji he “opened” Hakusan (2,702m), not to mention a slew of other mountains in the 'hood. 

And as in all the many temples inaugurated by this pioneering monk, Konzenji’s principal image depicted the eleven-headed Kannon, Taichō's patron saint. Over the next twelve centuries, a web of legends and stories wove themselves around this venerable statue. 

Long ago in Tsuruga, an only daughter fell deeper and deeper into destitution after her parents died. In desperation, she prayed to the Kannon-sama, whereupon a monk appeared in her dreams and said that the man who would become her husband would appear on the morrow. There was just one difficulty: the daughter had no food in the house to offer any guests. An old woman then passed by, who claimed to have known her parents, and brought her a veritable feast – for which the girl rewarded her with the gift of a scarlet silk robe, as she had no money to hand. And on that evening, it all came to pass. A wealthy young widower from Mino asked if he and his retinue could find lodgings there, and found that he was marvellously reminded by his hostess of his late wife. But before the girl left to live happily ever after in Mino, she went to visit the temple one last time. And there she saw that that the Kannon-sama was now wearing a scarlet hakama draped over her shoulders….

In 1570, the shrine and temple burned to the ground when Oda Nobunaga, never one to worry about collateral damage, laid siege to the castle on this same rocky foreland. Yet by some miracle the ancient statue survived, to be re-installed in a new hall in 1662. And so the Kannon-sama continued to watch over Tsuruga until 12 July 1945, when an air raid destroyed the town, the temple and everything in it. The statue in the rebuilt hall was borrowed from a subsidiary temple.

As on Iwagomori this morning, I have to hurry to after the ladies, who are now climbing the steep stone stairs up to the shrine. On the way, we pass a terrace where stalls are selling "soft cream", and roast squid on sticks, while a woman hoarsely exhorts a bored monkey to jump over hurdles. We catch up with each other under the shrine's inner torii. Now in full bloom, the flowers catch the occasional gleam of sunlight. Only in the distance do the clouds still sit firmly on the mountains.

Basho was here too: let's not get started on this now ....

A meizanologist's diary (75)

4 April: Pressure breathing has to be the secret, I decide – normally, I’d have no difficulty in keeping pace with the Sensei but today, every time I snap an image with my mobile phone, it’s all I can do to catch up with the ladies. My, they are moving. What’s more, they’ve been conversing all the way. So, for them, talking must be a form of pressure breathing …

 

Not that altitude is going to be a problem on Iwagomori-yama, one of Tsuruga's Three Famous Mountains. And Alpinist A. the Sensei’s friend, has further truncated its 765.2 metres by parking her car at the top of a pass. The rain has let up, but the trees are still dripping as we start off through the cloud forest of the Rei-Nan coastal range. 

 

Through mist-fogged glasses I observe what appears to be a mixed forest. We scramble up a rock step, its rugosities rough to the touch, which reminds us that the mountain's name could be translated as "Secluded among the rocks". Fragments of this granite strew the path, making the going less slippery than one might expect from the previous day’s downpours. 

 

At about 600 metres, we dip down into a grove of graceful beech trees. Once again, I’m amazed how low this cool temperate-zone species will grow on Fukui’s coastal hills. But for how long will they do so, given the rapid upshifting of climatic zones? It seems that Kyoto University has similar concerns at its Ashiu Forest Research Station, not so far from here. 

In the next decade, the savants warn, the lower limit for the beech trees will rise by three hundred metres, all but wiping them out within the bounds of the Research Station's mountains...

A meizanologist's diary (74)

3 April: by chance, we find ourselves back on the shores of Suigetsu-ko, the lake of seventy thousand varves. We are bivvying in an opulent ryokan prior to climbing a nearby mountain tomorrow – just as well we’re not bivvying for real, as it’s been raining all day. 

Yet the weather might be the least of our objective hazards. An unexceptionable fish is served at supper, not unlike a scaled-down flounder. As our host is hovering assiduously over the table, I ask him what it is. “Fugu,” he replies, “fresh from Tsuruga Bay.”

Not an eyebrow flickers among the Sensei and our friends, but I have to confess that a frisson runs down my spine – after all, fugu has enjoyed a certain rep among travellers in Japan ever since Engelbert Kaempfer wrote it up as “the poisonous Blower Fish“ back in the 1690s …

People that by some long and tedious sickness are grown weary of their lives, or are otherwise under miserable Circumstances, frequently chuse this poisonous Fish, instead of a knife or halter, to make away with themselves. A Neighbour of my Servant at Nangasaki being so strongly infected with the Pox that his nose was ready to drop off, resolv’d to take this Meal, in order to get rid at once both of his life and distemper. Accordingly he bought a quantity of this poisonous Fish, cut it into pieces, boil’d it, and in order as he thought, to make the poison still stronger, he took soot from the thatch’d roof of his house, and mix’d it with the rest ….

Kaempfer notwithstanding, I eat my fish up. Our host continues to assiduously hover – he has a way with that – and, besides, the cuisine is too good to waste. 

After dinner, I pinch my fingertips, testing them for the faintest hint of a tingle that is said to be the first sign of fugu poisoning. But, no, nothing. It looks as if we’re going to get away with it. As also, more surprisingly, did Kaempfer’s servant’s neighbour back in the day:

After dinner he laid himself down to die, and soon falling mortally sick, he brought up not only the poison he had taken, but a large quantity of viscid, sharp, nasty matter, probably not the least cause of his distemper, and by this means found life and health, in what he sought for death, for he recover’d and was well afterwards.

Well, thank goodness for that. When we retire, it's still raining. Now, at least, all we have to worry about is the weather.