Why was this?
Because Yari is high, Yari is sharp, and Yari is steep.
|"Proper snow spectacles are the most efficient preventive"|
Photo courtesy of the American Alpine Club library (via Flickr)
before the glare begins to be felt.
A five per cent solution of cocaine dissolved in rose-water, and with a little boric acid added, acts like a charm in snow-ophthalmia. It is not easy, unless the right method is adopted, to introduce the fluid into the eye, for directly the lids are separated a gush of tears ensues and washes out all the lotion. The sufferer should be directed to lie down with the back of his head to the light and with the eyes closed; a few drops of the solution are then poured into the little depression which is above the inner angle of the eyelids by the side of the nose.
C T Dent’s Chapter III in the Badminton Library Series on Mountaineering, third edition (1901).
Alpinistic advice from a mountaineering medic of the silver age
The special discomforts to which mountaineers are subject are sore feet, sunburn, snow-blindness, and frost-bite. Under certain conditions, marked symptoms due to the rarity of the air occur which are spoken of, collectively, as 'mountain sickness'.