First steps to climbing (1): “no great danger is likely”

On Milestone Buttress, Tryfan (North Wales)
Image from First Steps to Climbing

How shall I start climbing? This question is constantly asked, and the answer is not easy. Formerly the writer used to advise the beginner who is alone to go to Wastdale and engage Josef Gaspard for a series of expeditions. In his native Dauphiné, the well-known guide has now married a wife and cannot come. In due course a successor may emerge.

Undoubtedly the best plan is to begin on the homeland mountains, and the only place where professional help is at present available is at Sligachan in Skye. At that capital centre, members of the McKenzie family are still available and no great danger is likely under their tutelage. Moreover, the Coolin are probably the best mountains in Britain on which the beginner may learn not only cragmanship, but also real mountaineering ….

But ‘tis a far cry to Skye, and the writer usually recommends Wastdale Head in Cumberland as the best starting-ground. At all holiday seasons, the world-famous hotel is well filled wilh enthusiasts, and by making himself mildly agreeable, the would-be climber will find his friendliness requited. There are usually plenty of men who will take an interest in a keen beginner, and he will soon be invited to join some party or other. … Moreover the landlord at Wastdale Head has a fine knowledge of climbs and climbers, and if asked to do so can usually place the inexperienced in good hands …

For a party of beginners the most effective plan, and that which really produces the best climbers, is to tackle the rocks unaided and rely on their own initiative. Perhaps most enjoyment and satisfaction may be thus attained, and in this way many of the leading experts have developed.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.