First steps to climbing (6): "this is a public danger"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

The rope is almost the simplest detail of equipment to describe. There is only one make to recommend, and that is the famous Alpine Club rope made originally by the late John Buckingham and now produced by Mr. Arthur Beale, 194 Shaftesbury Avenue, W.C. It is a three-strand structure of the best manila hemp, and is made practically proof against damp and rot. Lengths of 40, 60, 80, and 100 feet are usually in stock, but for average work a length of 80 feet will be found best for three climbers. In ordinary Alpine expeditions or easier British courses, 60 feet might suffice for the same number.

"'Twixt earth and sky on Gt. Gable: a characteristic snapshot of the author
on a steep "lead"- the downward pull of a long length of rope is well shown." 
Image and original caption from First Steps to Climbing.

Quite recently an English flax rope made by Messrs. Frost Bros., 342 Commercial Road, London, E., has been tested and used. It appears to be slightly stronger than the famous manila brand, but not so likely to stand rough wear on the rocks. This latter is of vital importance. Foreign-made climbing ropes are much inferior, especially the woven variety. One's own rope should be taken abroad and brought home also, for if left with the guides they usually use the long-lasting manila Alpine Club rope for indefinite years. This is a public danger....

It will be obvious that the rope is really a life line for some of the party at various times: and its careful examination now and again is necessary. Sometimes rocks fall upon it and, unknown to the party, jar the soundness of the fabric. There have been a few accidents from the parting of the rope thus damaged. Also a new or almost new rope that has been in disuse for some time should be thoroughly tested. Not long ago an unused rope when opened out on Great End could be pulled apart by the hands at several places. Mice were at first suspected, but later on it was discovered that in some way acid had been in contact with the rope. "Never lend your climbing rope to anybody" is undoubtedly a sound rule to make. Also never ask your best friend for such a loan; refusal is often difficult.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.