First steps to climbing (7): "quinine should not be forgotten"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

A few practical medical hints may be of service. On lengthy snow expeditions toilet lanoline is as good a preventive of snow blistering as anything in the writer's experience. After such outings, the washing of the face with soap and water is inadvisable. A slight rub with a very soft towel followed by a face wash in warm milk is excellent.

With some experts a favourite but unsightly sun-burn preventive is Pommade Sèchehaye, a greasy mixture with an orange-brown ingredient that counteracts the actinic rays of the sun. Boric acid powder and ointment are simple and effective for abrasions. The latter is specially good for tender or blistered feet. Simple medicines of the English kind are not often procurable abroad, and many will suggest themselves as a personal matter, such as a favourite laxative. Those in tabloid form are the most convenient, and quinine should not be forgotten. 

Two or three roller bandages and some lint, as well as a supply of adhesive plaster, might be included. Suitable appetising luxuries, both liquid and solid, suggest themselves, but even the beginner might now be left to himself in such matters and in selecting other aids to comfort on the heights.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

First steps to climbing (6): "this is a public danger"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

The rope is almost the simplest detail of equipment to describe. There is only one make to recommend, and that is the famous Alpine Club rope made originally by the late John Buckingham and now produced by Mr. Arthur Beale, 194 Shaftesbury Avenue, W.C. It is a three-strand structure of the best manila hemp, and is made practically proof against damp and rot. Lengths of 40, 60, 80, and 100 feet are usually in stock, but for average work a length of 80 feet will be found best for three climbers. In ordinary Alpine expeditions or easier British courses, 60 feet might suffice for the same number.

"'Twixt earth and sky on Gt. Gable: a characteristic snapshot of the author
on a steep "lead"- the downward pull of a long length of rope is well shown." 
Image and original caption from First Steps to Climbing.

Quite recently an English flax rope made by Messrs. Frost Bros., 342 Commercial Road, London, E., has been tested and used. It appears to be slightly stronger than the famous manila brand, but not so likely to stand rough wear on the rocks. This latter is of vital importance. Foreign-made climbing ropes are much inferior, especially the woven variety. One's own rope should be taken abroad and brought home also, for if left with the guides they usually use the long-lasting manila Alpine Club rope for indefinite years. This is a public danger....

It will be obvious that the rope is really a life line for some of the party at various times: and its careful examination now and again is necessary. Sometimes rocks fall upon it and, unknown to the party, jar the soundness of the fabric. There have been a few accidents from the parting of the rope thus damaged. Also a new or almost new rope that has been in disuse for some time should be thoroughly tested. Not long ago an unused rope when opened out on Great End could be pulled apart by the hands at several places. Mice were at first suspected, but later on it was discovered that in some way acid had been in contact with the rope. "Never lend your climbing rope to anybody" is undoubtedly a sound rule to make. Also never ask your best friend for such a loan; refusal is often difficult.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

First steps to climbing (5): "the demands of respectability are worth consideration"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

Clothing for the mountaineer is of vital importance. As regards homeland climbing, little need be said. Woollens should be worn next to the skin, and for outer garments the usual plan would apparently be to use up all old disused details. 

Men in tweed: George Mallory on the Moine Ridge.
Photo by G W Young. 

Discarded army outfits and tunics have been much in evidence and the appearance of many a cragsman has become deplorable. Of Gunga Din Kipling wrote, "The uniform he wore was nothing much before and rather less than half of that behind," and the same might almost be said of a few climbers. Rocks rough-handle any kind of clothes badly, and though outfits more adaptable to Piccadilly than the Pillar are inadvisable, the demands of respectability are worth consideration. Lady climbers are beyond reproach in this respect, but the writer wishes they would wear short tunics.

At some of the centres the landlord keeps a store of climbers' cast-off clothes which have become a sort of public property for a "dry change" to be used by casual visitors and others. Some are very casual and exchanges are not unknown. Frequently quite good suits are left behind at Wastdale Head, and after an Easter holiday a well-known Oxford don who is somewhat exclusive in his colour choice decided to leave his climbing garments for the general store. Next term he was astonished to meet his exclusive tweeds in the "High" worn by an undergraduate. He was not easily persuaded that exchange is no robbery.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

First steps to climbing (4): "otherwise scarcely advisable"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties.

Puttees are better than gaiters for the legs, with a view to keeping the snow out of the tops of the boots. Otherwise they are scarcely advisable, because they are very prone to affect the circulation. The writer would always carry them in the pockets until reaching the soft snow. 

"In stormy weather, puttees may also be used ... as head wraps."
Image courtesy of the American Alpine Club (see below). 

For long exposure at very low temperatures to severe cold they may be wrapped all round the nailed boots, thus preventing that trying chilliness which sometimes spreads from the heavily nailed boot-sole to the foot. In stormy weather puttees may also be used as mufflers for the neck or as head wraps. Knitted anklets or those of the elastic kind supplied by sports outfitters are a comfort in keeping small stone out of the boot-tops.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

Image courtesy of Allison Albright, "For the lady mountaineer: a brief history of early climbing attire for women", Education Connect website, American Alpine Club, March 2018. 

First steps to climbing (3): "notorious for unpleasant language"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties.

Boots and Foot-wear. Sound feet are the climber’s first necessity; these and the knowledge of how to use them are probably the most important of all equipment details. The expert is distinguished by the use of his feet, not his hands. 

Image from First Steps to Climbing.

Good mountain boots, properly nailed with abiding nails, are difficult to obtain. Certainly the best of all are made in England; there is no need to send abroad either for boots or nails. Many of the Swiss guides know this nowadays, and send accordingly to a small town in Lakeland. From Keswick also have come the boots for well-known expeditions to the Caucasus, Spitzbergen, and Mount Everest. The writer is loth to mention names, but to do so here may be the best way to help the beginner. In his earliest mountaineering days the writer was fortunate enough to discover a clever artisan who was anxious to experiment and learn. This was Mr. H. Harden, of St. John’s Street, Keswick, and nowadays his handwork on footwork has touched mountains almost everywhere. Numerous other makers advertise in the various climbing journals, and another well-known mountain boot specialist is Mr. J. Carter, 8. Molton Street, London, W.1.

Rubber shoes are much used nowadays for British rock climbing of exceptional severity. and this is their only justification, though in the Dolomites they may be used as standard foot-wear. In a following chapter this matter will receive full attention. Probably the best kind for average use is the black rubber-soled variety with canvas tops. These are commonly known as ”plimsoles” and only cost three or four shillings the pair. The cheaper kind with unstamped soles are not as good. One pair lasts about a week’s continuous climbing in the Dolomites, the most expensive qualities scarcely survive longer, and ‘‘plimsoles’’ have also the merit of easily fitting into an inside pocket.

Crampons, steigeisen, or climbing irons are a series of metal spikes fixed on a metal frame-work and the whole is attached to the boot somewhat in the manner of the old-fashioned wooden skates. On rocks they have been tried and found useless, but on hard snow and ice-slopes set at easy angles they have distinct advantages. Theoretically they are magnificent, but somehow or other British mountaineers in general have never favoured them. The same may be said of Swiss guides. They save step cutting to a considerable extent, and after some practice quite steep snow-slopes can be walked upon with comparative ease. The point is that each member of the party must have crampons, otherwise steps require cutting. A well-known guide told the writer that even though crampons were worn, he generally would cut steps for his patrons. Crampon parties are notorious for unpleasant language, for it is seldom that some defect does not arise in use—some part of the fitting is forgotten or something breaks. There is more than meets the eye in the use of these aids, and strange disasters have happened whereby whole parties have been swept down.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

First steps to climbing (2): “cheap ropes are an abomination”

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties.

The equipment of the climber, especially in his early stages, is very often a matter of fads and fancies. The actual necessities are few. Yet they must be of the very best quality and most suitable for the purpose required. Cheap ropes, for instance, are an abomination, and numerous fatal accidents have been caused by their use…

"A safe straight pull on a steep buttress ..."
Image and caption from First Steps to Climbing

Of equal and even greater importance is the climber himself – his individual equipment, both mental and physical. The writer holds strong views that climbing is only suitable for those who have reached the age of discretion. Boys may be taken out by their experienced elders, but before the age of twenty-one serious work, such as leading, should not be undertaken. The question of over-straining the bodily powers, though this may prove serious, is not in mind here, but rather the youthful lack of responsibility. The sad records of any public school which has bird-nesting crags within convenient reach will accentuate this. 

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

First steps to climbing (1): “no great danger is likely”

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties.

How shall I start climbing? This question is constantly asked, and the answer is not easy. Formerly the writer used to advise the beginner who is alone to go to Wastdale and engage Josef Gaspard for a series of expeditions. In his native Dauphiné, the well-known guide has now married a wife and cannot come. In due course a successor may emerge. 

On Milestone Buttress, Tryfan (North Wales)
Image from First Steps to Climbing

Undoubtedly the best plan is to begin on the homeland mountains, and the only place where professional help is at present available is at Sligachan in Skye. At that capital centre, members of the McKenzie family are still available and no great danger is likely under their tutelage. Moreover, the Coolin are probably the best mountains in Britain on which the beginner may learn not only cragmanship, but also real mountaineering ….

But ‘tis a far cry to Skye, and the writer usually recommends Wastdale Head in Cumberland as the best starting-ground. At all holiday seasons, the world-famous hotel is well filled wilh enthusiasts, and by making himself mildly agreeable, the would-be climber will find his friendliness requited. There are usually plenty of men who will take an interest in a keen beginner, and he will soon be invited to join some party or other. … Moreover the landlord at Wastdale Head has a fine knowledge of climbs and climbers, and if asked to do so can usually place the inexperienced in good hands …

For a party of beginners the most effective plan, and that which really produces the best climbers, is to tackle the rocks unaided and rely on their own initiative. Perhaps most enjoyment and satisfaction may be thus attained, and in this way many of the leading experts have developed.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.