At 3 P.M. we reached the first snow, at a height of 7,200 feet, at a spot where, in a gloomy ravine, dark cliffs rose steep and forbidding on either hand. No sooner was the word to halt here given, than at once our hunters threw down their packs and fell to prodding about with their sticks in the boles and crannies of the broken rocks in a state of wild excitement. They told us they were searching for a particular sort of lizard called san-shō-no-uwo, which this stream produced to perfection.
When caught, skewered on long sticks, and dried, it is highly esteemed as a cure for various diseases of children. In China it is also much valued in the native pharmacopeia, and goes by the name of the "stony son of a dragon". In an advertisement drawing attention to its uses in a native Shanghai newspaper some time ago, it was stated that the medicine made from it was "not only unusually effective against the plague, but it is also infallible against different kinds of cholera, typhus and typhoid fevers, ague, diphtheria, liver and stomach aches, vomiting, diarrhoea, colic, apoplexy, sunstroke, asphyxia, tetanus in children, surfeiting, small-pox, malaria, all sorts of tumours, and inflammatory poisons, &c."
Presumably Weston's hunters were looking for the small variety of mountain salamander - incidentally, these are still occasionally served up in remote mountain villages, skewered on long sticks and baked in honey glaze. Delicious, you know. As for their larger cousins, Weston seems to know of these only by hearsay:
Chief of all reptiles of this class, however, is the Giant Salamander (Cryptobronchus Japonicus), found chiefly on the west or south-west spurs of this range (as well as in some other parts between 34° and 36° N. lat.). It appears to chiefly prefer the clear mountain streams of granite and schist ranges at a height of 2,000 to 4,000 feet above the sea. It feeds chiefly upon trout (in which those streams abound) and upon the larvae of insects and the smaller batrachians. Its flesh is valued chiefly for its medicinal uses and for keeping the water clean in wells. The largest specimens, five feet long or so, are brought to the principal cities, where they are found as curiosities in the naturalists' shops.Whilst near relatives are found in China and in North America, its closest kinsman of all is the one whose remains were found by Scheuchzer at Oeningen. Owing, however, to its weak reproduction and limited distribution, it will soon follow its departed cousin, that homo diluvia testis, and at no distant date will cease to form part of the living fauna of Japan.
Let's hope that Weston's gloomy prognosis is unfounded. Alas, it's not just the giant salamanders that we have to worry about. The header photo in this post is borrowed from Natural Monuments of Japan, an opulent volume published by Kodansha in 1995. Giant salamanders are in there because they have "special natural monument" status.
References
Postscript
The idea of ramps for giant salamanders put Project Hyakumeizan in mind of a marvel closer to home: the famous cat ladders of Bern, Switzerland. Another ingenious solution for our animal friends....
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