One Hundred Mountains: “A light grey felt hat is cool”

What ladies wear in the mountains: some hints from a hundred years ago

We raise our chapeau to Elise Wortley, who recently attempted Mont Blanc (4,805.59m) in period dress. Aiming to highlight women adventurers who achieved astonishing feats, Wortley started the climb in a bonnet, tweed dress and hobnailed boots, as worn by Henriette d’Angeville, who made the ascent in 1838. You can read more about Wortley’s venture on her own website or in her Financial Times article (subscription may be required).

"When climbing, the skirt ... must be looped up"
Illustration from the Badminton Library, Mountaineering

Just in case this retro vibe should catch on, we reproduce below the advice given on a “Climbing outfit for ladies” in the Badminton Library volume on Mountaineering, first published in 1892 and reprinted in 1901. The book was compiled by Clinton Thomas Dent, a medical man whose climbs included a first ascent of the Grande Aiguille du Dru. As a footnote reveals, though, he wisely deferred to “Mrs Jackson, Mrs Main and Miss Richardson” for the views set out here:

Women who climb should, like men, dress in such a manner that they are protected from extremes of either heat or cold. Every garment should be of wool, and the softer and lighter the material the better. The only exception to this latter point should be the skirt, and this will be found most serviceable if made of cloth, rough in texture and as thick as the wearer can get, provided it is not clumsy. A closely woven tweed is suitable. A small check pattern mends neatly if torn. Grey or brown are the most suitable colours for a climbing skirt; blue soon shows the marks of dust or stains. The skirt should be a plain walking skirt of an ordinary length, the broad hem turned outwards and with a deep border of stitching. Three yards round the hem will be found a good width for a skirt. A mackintosh bordering to the skirt is quite useless.

Mrs Main (née Elizabeth Hawkins-Whitshed) models a mountain skirt
Image courtesy of Women's Museum of Ireland

The pockets should be large and in definite places, one on either side and one at the back. They should be outside and flaps to button down. Two or more buttons are desirable on each flap, so that nothing may slip out when sleeping in huts. A small waterproof pocket in the skirt by the band is useful for carrying the bank notes current in Austria and Italy. The other pockets should be lined with sateen, and one can covered with mackintosh. When climbing the skirt must, whatever its length, be looped up, and therefore it is easy to have a skirt which, in the valleys or towns, does not look conspicuous. For looping up the skirt, the following simple plan is effective. An extra belt of strong ribbon is put on over the skirt, which is then pinned to it in fish-wife style. The length is arranged according to the requirements of the occasion. One safety: pin attaching the two sides and another fastening the back, the hem being pinned on to the outer belt, do the work. The safety pins, however, are apt to drag and tear the skirt. An equally good method of shortening the skirt is by an arrangement of loops and buttons. Strong tapes are well stitched up each seam inside the skirt, and also up the middle and back widths: each tape carries a large bone button and two tape loops not too low down. The tape gives more hold for the buttons, and prevents any of the material being torn out.

A rough cloth coat lined throughout with silk may taken in case of cold. A fairly thick Shetland shawl has many uses. It is very light and warm. Tied over the head in cold or windy weather, or in a hut at night, it is a great comfort.

Mrs Main in midwinter, probably on Piz Palu c.1898

The knickerbockers should be made of tweed, the band being lined with flannel or other woollen material. The tweed should match the skirt, and will then be found suitable either when worn, as formerly, under it, or, following the practice occasionally adopted, worn without the skirt, the latter being taken off before beginning the climb.

The bodice is an important part of the outfit, A soft grey flannel blouse, high in the neck, long in the sleeves, and loose, is the best for both heat and cold. The bodice should have breast pockets, one of them being suitable for carrying a watch.

A light grey felt hat is cool. A knitted helmet,which can be pulled over the whole head and face, the eyes only being uncovered, is a necessity in very cold weather. A large silk handkerchief is useful to tie the hat on in a high wind.

Mrs Main sets out on a winter expedition.
Image from True Tales of Mountain Adventure

Woollen stockings (one pair on, another pair in the knapsack), thick, watertight, nailed mountain boots, and cloth gaiter to button or to pull on in the Chamonix style (hooks and laces are apt to catch in a skirt are all essential. Putties, or spats and putties combined, are much to be recommended. Gloves should invariably be of wool, and of the shape worn by babies, the fingers being enclosed in a bag, and the thumb only having a separate casing. Let the gloves come well up the arms, and have at the very least two pairs with you on an expedition. A large safety hook and eye in each pair will enable them to be hung from the waist belt. A very fine woollen mask to protect the face is much pleasanter to wear than one of linen.

Lady alpinist and guide, c. 1906
Image from True Tales of Mountain Adventure

A more extensive outfit is required on a tour when access is not to be had to heavy luggage for several days. The climber may have to spend a few nights in the more civilised of the Alpine centres, or perhaps twelve hours may even be passed in such places as Geneva or Turin. It is necessary to be provided against such contingencies, and if a little thought and trouble are given to the matter, neither the weight nor the bulk of the extra garments necessary need be great.

Silk (only to be worn when not climbing) can be substituted for wool for the under-clothing, of which two complete changes are desirable, not including what is worn. A dark blue or grey silk blouse can be worn with the climbing skirt in the evenings, and a small dark felt hat, which will fold flat, and a pair of gants de suède will help to do away with the stamp of the climber. Leather soles, without any heel whatsoever, put to a pair of neat black laced shoes, will pack flat and take up very little room. The whole weight of the bundle (which can be tied up in a large silk handkerchief) need not exceed 4 1/2 Ibs., including such essentials as soap, a comb, pocket-handkerchiefs, and other small things which the experience of each climber will suggest.