Wednesday, July 30, 2025

The Fall of Language from 3,463 metres

A perspective on Mizumura Minae’s provocative yet productive polemic.

The Jungfraujoch lies almost three and a half kilometres above sea level. Staring down from here into the cloud-filled bowl of the Konkordiaplatz, I saw that conditions were less than ideal for skiing solo over Switzerland’s largest glacier. A burly figure standing nearby must have read my mind. “Come with us,” he said, “we’ve got a rope.”

View towards Konkordiaplatz from the Jungfraujoch (3,463m).
Photo by courtesy of Alpine Light & Structure.

On the train home, after a pleasant day’s ski-tour through the Bernese Alps, we fell into conversation. My benefactor turned out to be a prominent sekiwake of Basel’s alpinistic community. And he outed himself as a fan of Murakami Haruki, having read pretty much everything the author has published.

I start with this episode to underline that Murakami fans are everywhere (I’ve climbed the Mönch with another, also in so-so weather). But, world-renowned as he may be, the novelist doesn’t merit a flicker of recognition in Mizumura Minae’s The Fall of Language in the Age of English – in which, as far as I can see, she does not mention him by name, or even so much as hint at his existence. Well, this is a rum go.

Summit ridge of the Mönch: Murakami fans are everywhere.
Photo by courtesy of Alpine Light & Structure. 

The original version of Mizumura’s book came out in 2008 with the title of Nihongo ga horobiru toki: Eigo no seiki no naka de – which might be rendered as the Fall of Japanese during the Era of English. Tens of thousands of copies were sold; the book ranked top on Amazon Japan and it won the Kobayashi Hideo Award, named for one of the Hyakumeizan author’s climbing companions. The English translation, with a slightly amended title, appeared in 2015.

Mizumura is refreshingly controversial. Starting with the observation that translations from a universal language (say, Chinese) helped to kick-start literatures in national tongues (say, Korean or Japanese), she asks what effect the new global universal language – English – will have on these national languages and literatures. And she argues that both the languages and the literature will find themselves impoverished.

The book starts with a flashback to an international writing program in Iowa. The experience is less than satisfactory. So far from being oppressed by the English language, many of the participants can barely communicate in it. So the time passes unprofitably for Mizumura, who is fluent in English having spent her high school and university years in the United States. After the program ends, she meets a friend who bemoans the current state of Japanese literature. It’s all crap, they agree.

The second chapter deals with the French language, and how it gradually lost its groove as an international language. Yet, when she entered Yale, it was French literature that Mizumura chose as a major, thus following in the footsteps of many a Japanese intellectual, including the Hyakumeizan author himself and at least two of his climbing companions, Kon Hidemi and the aforementioned Kobayashi Hideo. Alas, Mizumura concludes, French is now “in the same sorry camp” (her words) as Japanese.

Taking a high line on the Louwitor, Bernese Oberland.
Photo by courtesy of Alpine Light & Structure. 

But perhaps the lady protests too much. Indeed, the title of her fifth chapter – "The Miracle of Modern Japanese Literature" – almost undercuts her argument. The thesis here is that the stress of encountering Western languages and literature forced the yokuzuna of Meiji and Taishо̄ letters to create a new way of writing. And in this they succeeded magnificently.

Everyone knows about Natsume Sōseki’s love-hate relationship with English literature – indeed, echoes of his travails in London have reached as far as this blog. And he probably voiced the predicament of Meiji-era writers more eloquently than most, lamenting that they had experienced a “sudden twist” away from their culture’s roots in a Sino-centric civilisation.

Mizumura shows that this deep engagement with the West extended across the whole literary landscape. Futabata Shimei, for example, who wrote Ukigumo (Floating Clouds), Japan’s first modern novel in 1887, was “thoroughly schooled” in Russian and its literature.

In the next generation, there was Akutagawa Ryūnosuke (1892–1927), who not only climbed Yarigatake in his youth but “read an astounding amount of English at an astounding speed”: he is said to have despatched an English version of War and Peace in four days.

And there was Nakazato Kaizan (1885–1944), who was an avid reader of Victor Hugo in English translation. Incidentally, his most famous work, the “long Buddhist novel” of Daibosatsu tōge (1929) gets a mention in the very first sentence of the relevant chapter in Fukada Kyūya’s Nihon Hyakumeizan.

As a result, writes Mizumura, “Japan became a nation so literary that it would have been the envy of all literature-loving people of the world – if only they had known!”. If only they had known? Japanese literature, Mizumura clarifies, finally attracted the world’s attention in 1968, a century after the Meiji Restoration, when Kawabata Yasunari won the Nobel Prize in Literature.

You could take issue with that last judgment. I mean, if the world only woke up to Japanese literature in 1968, Arthur Waley must have been wasting his time when he started translating The Tale of the Genji in the 1920s. What a mercy, then, that he burned up no more than twelve years of his life in doing so …

This quibble aside, Mizumura’s chapter on the sekitori of modern Japanese literature is a masterpiece – well worth the price of the book on its own. She has twice lectured on this subject at Princeton and it shows.

Crevasse zone on the Louwitor, Bernese Oberland.
Photo by courtesy of Alpine Light & Structure.

However, the following chapter on “The Future of National Languages” ventures into a bit of a crevasse zone. Would someone like Sо̄seki bother to write literature in Japanese today, Mizumura asks – before suggesting that, oppressed by the worldwide sway of the English language, he might prefer to become a scientist.

Well, he might indeed. But, then again, he might equally well run a jazz bar in Tokyo for seven years, and do Japanese translations of short stories by Raymond Carver and Truman Capote, as well as of Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby and J D Salinger’s The Catcher in the Rye, among others, before kicking off a successful career as a writer in his own right …

The case of Murakami Haruki hints that the status of English as a universal language may not be wholly demoralising for writers in other tongues. But Mizumura doesn’t give much airtime to such thoughts. Rather, she suggests, the closer a language is to English, the greater the risk that the population will become more attuned to contemporary Anglophone culture than to its own heritage.

German is a case in point: “Because writing in English comes easily for users of Germanic languages,” Mizumura writes, “more and more writers might even be tempted to write novels, poems and plays in English with a world audience in mind.” Again, they might indeed. But a visit to any bookstore in the German-speaking world will quickly allay such fears.

Speaking of bookstores, your reviewer just last week dropped into the cramped but well-curated one in Terminal Two at London’s Heathrow airport. Needless to say, Murakami occupied a decent fraction of one shelf, amply supported by a slew of cat and bookshop-related fiction from other Japanese authors, to say nothing of the ikigai books in the lifestyle section. And, placed in pole position close to the entrance, was a table of books by newly translated Korean authors, including last year’s Nobel laureate.

You know, English-speaking writers might like to heed Mizumura-sensei’s parting advice to them, which is to try ‘walking through the doors of other languages’. Otherwise, with all this talent flowing in from Asia, they could well find themselves marginalised one of these days…

References

Minae Mizumura, The Fall of Language in the Age of English, translated by Mari Yoshihara and Juliet Winters Carpenter, Columbia University Press, 2015.

Monday, July 7, 2025

Reappraising the Abraham brothers (2)

Continued: they took mountain photography to a new level - but was it Art?

Their mentor's death did little to deter the Abraham brothers. Picking up where Owen Glynne Jones had left off, they published a climbing guidebook for North Wales in 1906. George developed into a strong leader in his own right, making first ascents in the Lakes and Scotland. 

The Pinnacle on Scafell.
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

The guidebook also helped to launch George on his prolific career of mountain writing. And both brothers became family men and pillars of the local community: Ashley was first a member and then chairman of Keswick Council.

Climbing the Eiger: original caption reads "A safe pull".
Image from George D Abraham, Swiss Mountain Climbs.

They also continued their tradition of summer mountaineering holidays in the Alps, proving that they could wield a camera as stylishly in the big mountains as on their local crags. 


Climbing the Wetterhorn.
Image from George D Abraham, Swiss Mountain Climbs.

Although it's hard to believe that they used an Instanto to capture pictures like the crevasse mishap below – surely, by this time, they’d kitted themselves out with the kind of lighter, handier apparatus that the hard-driving Mrs Main had already adopted for en-route photography. But again the record remains silent on this point.


"Hold tight! A sudden slip into a snow-masked crevasse on the Jungfrau."
        Original caption and photo from First Steps to Climbing.

They certainly explored other photographic innovations. Like Mrs Main, they experimented with film-making before the First World War and in 1921 they helped to make a feature film based on a story written by the mountaineer/novelist A E W Mason – although here the brothers served as stand-ins for the actors during climbing scenes, not as cameramen.

Image from Ashley Abraham, Beautiful Lakeland (1912).

Meanwhile, Ashley had parlayed his mountain photography skills into a series of books celebrating the broader landscapes of the Lake District and North Wales. His command of lighting and composition invites comparison with the likes of Albert Steiner (1877–1965), whose moody exposures captured the dream-like light of Switzerland’s Engadine valley.

Image from Ashley Abraham, Beautiful Lakeland (1912).

Albert Steiner is an intriguing parallel here. For decades after his death, nobody in the fine art world took him seriously. After all, the Swiss photographer had started out as a baker’s son and apprentice and for most of his career he’d made his living as a commercial photographer, producing images of hotel rooms, post buses and whatever else his clients needed for brochures and advertising copy. It was only after a landmark exhibition of his landscapes in 1992, at the Bündner Kunstmuseum in Chur, Switzerland, that the art world started to take him seriously.

View of the Cuillins from Sligachan, Skye.
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

All this raises the question whether George and Ashley Abraham aren’t also overdue for a “Kunsthaus moment”. Back then, Mills & Boon hardly did their pictures justice. Shoehorned as sketchily printed plates into one of the romance publisher’s duodecimo editions, their photos have scant room to breathe. But what if the best of their images were digitally remastered, lavishly printed on fine paper, framed, and exhibited as artworks? Then we’d see something like a Steiner-esque transformation, I suspect.

If it does happen, please enjoy the exhibition. And remember you read it here first…


References


George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags: a portfolio of early rock climbing photographs by the Abraham Brothers, Heinemann 1975.

Iso Camartin, Peter Herzog and Ruth Herzog, «Du grosses stilles Leuchten»: Albert Steiner und die Bündner Landschaftsphotographie, Zürich, Offizin, 1992.

Reappraising the Abraham brothers (1)

They took mountain photography to another level – but was it Art? 

Back in March, I dropped into Jimbōchō, Tokyo’s used book district, on the first day of its annual festival. This yielded a musty copy of George D Abraham’s First Steps to Climbing, published in 1923 by Mills & Boon, Limited. Yes, that Mills & Boon – the back papers advertise the kind of titles that the publisher is still best known for, such as Miss Pretty in the WoodElizabeth Who Wouldn't, and Love and Chiffon

The Abraham brothers, Ashley and George, in the 1930s.
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

We digress. To share George Abraham’s quirky yet often pertinent climbing advice, this blog then posted a series of excerpts from his book, with the accompanying photos. Which prompted reader Stephen50 to put up some perceptive comments highlighting both the quality of the Abraham brothers’ photography and the existence of a biography, Camera on the Crags by Alan Hankinson.

Climbers in Easter Gully on Dow Crag (detail).
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

Intrigued, I reached for a copy of this genial and informative book, which explained just why the Abrahams were such skilled image-makers. For George (1871–1965) and his brother Ashley (1876–1951) were professionals, both born and bred. Their father, George Perry Abraham (1844–1923), founded and owned a successful photography business in Keswick, in the English Lake District – a business that, in turn, passed to Ashley’s son.

On Tryfan's Central Buttress.
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

So they had already inherited their photographic smarts by the early 1890s, when they set about learning to rock-climb. This they did on their own bat, which probably explains why George Abraham opined in First Steps that “For a party of beginners the most effective plan, and that which really produces the best climbers, is to tackle the rocks unaided and rely on their own initiative” – a view not widely endorsed today.


Owen Glynne Jones climbing on gritstone.
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

But what lofted the brothers into the big league of mountain photography was their partnership with Owen Glynne Jones (1867–1899). By profession a physics teacher in London, Jones was then at the forefront of the rock-climbing scene. A fluent writer, he was working on a climber’s guide to the Lake District, but needed somebody to make the photographs. In the Abraham brothers, he found just the team he was looking for. 

Alpinists on the way to the Fiescherhorn, Bernese Oberland.
Image from George D Abraham, Swiss Mountain Climbs.

From early 1897, for a brief two years, the brothers climbed with Jones in both the Lake District and North Wales. During that time, the brothers also went to the Alps for the first time, although not with Jones. They even talked with him about an expedition to Kanchenjunga. George Abraham advanced his climbing skills and made friends within the climbing community, while it was Ashley who more often than not tended the camera on narrow ledges.

An Underwood "Instanto".
Image by courtesy of antiquewoodcameras.com.

And what a camera! Manufactured by E & T Underwood of 130–2 Granville Street, Birmingham, the “Instanto” was little more than a mahogany frame supporting a leather bellows that could be racked in and out for focus. Shutter? Forget it: after propping the camera on a sturdy tripod, focusing onto a ground glass screen and inserting a dry plate, the photographer removed and replaced the lens cap for an estimated exposure time of, say, a second or more. By today’s norms, the name “Instanto” extravagantly violated any law of trade descriptions.

Climbers on Napes Needle (also styled the Aiguille du Nuque).
Image from Alan Hankinson's Camera on the Crags.

Yet, when viewed in the generously sized plates of Alan Hankinson’s book, the results speak for themselves. The compositions breathe a sense of classical repose, enforced by those lengthy exposure times that froze the climbers by necessity into statuesque poses. But this was only a part of it. 

On the Cuillin Ridge, Skye.
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

A typical Abrahams photo never fails to bring out the shadow detail, revealing the texture and detail of the rocks in an opulent, luminous granularity. This they achieved partly from their attention to lighting – diffuse, if possible, and ideally from a three-quarter angle, over the photographer’s shoulder. But development times and tricks must also have played a role. Unfortunately, these are lost to history: the brothers wrote little or nothing about their photographic techniques. 

The Cioch, Skye.
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

On a good day, the Abrahams could give even photographic masters such as Georges Tairraz of Chamonix (1868–1924) a run for their money – like themselves, Tairraz represented the second generation of a photographic dynasty. Although any recognition for their skills from that direction was distinctly back-handed. Several of their photos, records George in First Steps to Climbing,  “appeared surreptitiously in Alpine centres with French titles, as though they portrayed bits on the Chamonix aiguilles. The Napes Needle was unmistakable, even titled as the Aiguille du Nuque…” 

On Pillar East Face (detail).
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

Alas, the Abraham brothers' rock-climbing apprenticeship with O G Jones was all too short. In August 1899, their mentor fell to his death along with his three guides from the Ferpècle Arête of the Dent Blanche. The accident horrified the climbing world, even leaving its mark on a famous Japanese novel....





Sunday, June 29, 2025

Tales of past and present (7)

Concluded: a talk about foreign explorers of Japan's mountains, then and now.

So what is going on now? A big difference today is the internet and social media – this may reduce the need for clubs, because you can find partners and get all the information about hiking and climbing conditions online, via Yamap and Yamareco. Anyway, I'm not aware of any international hiking and mountaineering club like the Mountain Goats of Kobe at the moment.

Foreigners are still climbing technical routes in Japan, perhaps more than ever now that guiding services exist. One key source of information is a website run by Tony Grant (right), who works for the British Council. He learned to rock climb in the UK, and followed that up with alpine climbing in Poland. When he came to Japan – this was nearly two decades ago – he started climbing with other expatriates, but then started investigating Japanese climbing guidebooks.

In the end, he started publishing his own route descriptions on Climb Japan!, his English-language website, and he has published two ebooks with a selection of classic routes – including Yari’s Kitakama One, Chūōryō and Nanryō in Tanigawa-dake’s Ichinokura-sawa, Shirouma Shuryō, and other favourites.

Another big change since the 1990s is the Nihon Hyakumeizan boom among foreign climbers. For many, the first inspiration came from Lonely Planet’s Hiking in Japan, published in 2001, which had a text box describing the Hyakumeizan concept – one of the authors was Craig McLachlan, a New Zealander who climbed all 100 mountains in the summer of 1997 and published a book about this feat.

The Lonely Planet Guide is long out of print, but that doesn’t matter. Thanks to blogging – in Japanese, English and German and probably other languages too – there is a wealth of information online. One of the first such websites on the scene was Wes Lang’s Hiking in Japan, which has all the information you need for each of the 100 mountains. And you'll find more excellent guidance in the links in this blog's sidebar, including David Lowe's Ridgeline Images, Emma Goto's hiking blog, Willie Banff's On Higher Ground, and Ben Hentschel's Meizan Memories.

Wes Lang tops out on his 100th mountain in 2008.

Wes teaches English writing at two universities in the Kansai – he lives on Ikoma-yama, of course, one of the highest places in the region – and he completed his round of the Hyakumeizan in 2008, the first American to do so. So his website is a key resource for Hyakumeizan hunters who don’t read Japanese.

But that wasn’t enough for Wes – feeling that there was a gap after the Lonely Planet guide went out of print, he teamed up with an English friend, Tom Fay, and compiled a detailed guide to hiking in the Japan Alps, North, South and Central. The book also covers the four main routes on Mt Fuji. It came out in 2019 and is now the only current guidebook in English to Japan’s high mountains.

As we have seen, guidebooks can be influential. The one by Satow and Hawes set Walter Weston on his way, while Lonely Planet fomented a mini-Hyakumeizan boom among foreigners. (By the way, some foreign mountaineers are already pursuing the 200 and 300 famous mountains). It’s too early to say what influence Fay and Lang will have, but please watch this space. Something will happen for sure. 

And this brings us to the future.

Some parts of the future won't look so different from the past, I would imagine. Earlier, I mentioned the foreign botanists who travelled the mountains in the Meiji era. Well, they still do.

For example, there is a very rare birch tree found only in the Chichibu mountains and nowhere else in the world. I read that botanists at Oxford University and Tokyo University are working together to preserve it – the seeds are being kept at several different places, including Kew Gardens in London – the very same institution where your founder member Takeda Hisayoshi came to study from 1910 onwards.

Then again, mountaineering is always being re-imagined. “Mais des rêves, il en faut toujours. Je les préfère aux souvenirs,” said Gaston Rébuffat (1921–1985)( But dreams we must have and, all the time, I prefer dreams to memories).

You could spend a lifetime climbing Japan’s classic routes and the Hyakumeizan. And, for most of us, that’s more than enough. At the same time, a few pioneers now and again dream up a completely new way to read the landscape. I’m thinking here of Tanaka Yōki, who completed the Hyakumeizan with “human power” only. Or Shimizu Tetsuya, who soloed all the Kurobe gorges and made a winter traverse of the Shiretoko Peninsula.

It will be interesting to see how foreign climbers too choose to exert their imaginations in the mountains of Japan….

References

A Japanese-language version of this talk was given at the Ryokusōkai on 29 March 2025 at the offices of the Japanese Alpine Club. It drew on the following sources, among others:

Freshfield, Douglas, “A Playground at the East End: Rambles in Japan”, Alpine Journal, 1914.

Ion, Hamish, “Mountaineering in Japan: British Pioneers and the Pre-war Japanese Alpine Club” in Hugh Cortazzi (ed), Britain & Japan Biographical Portraits, Vol IX, Amsterdam University Press, 2015.

Kuwada, Gonpei, Biography of Benjamin Smith Lyman, Tokyo: Sanseidō, January 1937.

Mizuno, Tsutomu, “Meiji shoki no Nihon ni okeru gaikokujin no tozan katsudo ni tsuite”, JAC Yama, 1976 (series).

Murray Walton, W. H., Scrambles in Japan and Formosa, Edward Arnold, 1934.

New York Times, "Saving a Rare Tree Worlds Away", 26 October 2015.

Nunokawa Kin’ichi, “Nihon no yama to gaikokujin” in Hito wa naze yama ni noboru no ka, Taiyo Bessatsu, no 103, Autumn 1998.

Nunokawa Kin’ichi (ed), Me de miru Nihon no tozanshi, Yama to keikoku-sha, November 2005.

Starr, Frederick, Fujiyama: the Sacred Mountain of Japan, Chicago: Covici-McGee, 1924.

Weston, Walter, The Playground of the Far East, John Murray, 1918.

And many thanks for a great deal of invaluable advice and guidance from Ohmori Hisao (Japanese Alpine Club), Iain Williams (Toyohashi Alpine Club), Wes Lang and Harumi Hood (Fukui Alpine Club).

Tuesday, June 24, 2025

Images and ink (55)


Image
: Frontispiece from Upon that Mountain (1943) by Eric Shipton.

Ink: Eric Shipton's thoughts on "Large Expeditions" particularly those of the 1930s to Everest, from Chapter Eight of Upon that Mountain

Finally, the disadvantage of large expeditions lay in the fact that the necessity of raising big funds made it difficult to control publicity. The expeditions became invested with a glamour foreign to the fundamental simplicity of the game. It was quite natural that mountaineers should wish to climb the highest peak in the world, or at least be interested in the project. But unfortunately Everest’s supremacy among mountains appealed to the popular imagination of a record-breaking age, and gradually the expeditions began to receive a press publicity out of all proportion to the value of the undertaking, and certainly out of keeping with what used to be regarded as "the best traditions of mountaineering”…

I knew a man with a strong claim for a place on the expedition who said that he wanted to climb Everest so as to make a big name for himself, which would enable him to use his influence in the cause of world peace. A worthy ambition, no doubt, but surely it would have been more profitable to devote his energies to the study of political economy rather than to proving himself a mountaineer with an exceptionally large lung capacity or whatever it is that enables a man to climb to great altitudes. This is one example among many of an extraordinary distortion of values which has its roots in the opening of a short-cut to fame. Were it not so laughable it might well be resented by those who find in mountaineering a deep aesthetic pleasure.

Friday, June 20, 2025

Tales of past and present (6)

Continued: a talk about foreign explorers of Japan's mountains, then and now.

As remarked in the previous post, it took a long time for foreigners to recover their enthusiasm for the Japanese mountains. When they did, new highways and Shinkansen routes may have played a part: in the late 1980s and 1990s, the Japan Alps started to come within the regular weekend range of big city dwellers for the first time.

Paul Hunt atop Shiomi-dake (3,046.9 metres).
Illustration from Paul Hunt's Hiking in Japan.

In 1988, at long last, a new English-language guidebook came out. This was Paul Hunt’s Hiking in Japan. Hunt was well qualified to write on the mountains, having graduated in geology and later working as a meteorologist. He came to Japan in 1978 to work with a team exploring for oil in the Japan Sea (following in the prospecting footsteps of Benjamin Smith Lyman). In the introduction to his book, Hunt mentions several mountain-related associations including the JAC, the Friends of the Earth, and the International Adventure Club.

The guidebook that launched a thousand mountain trips ...

The International Adventure Club, Hunt says, is "a group of foreigners and Japanese who organize hiking, rock climbing, and skiing trips out of Tokyo. They have monthly meetings in Tokyo and issue a newsletter. They can be contacted through Dave Parry or Yuko Nakano…."

In Early Heisei or thereabouts, in the early 1990s, a number of foreign climbers must have phoned Dave or Yuko – indeed, I was one of them. This small group had a smattering of experience in the European Alps and we wanted to try out some routes in the Japan Alps – somehow we had got to hear about Takidani and Kita-dake Buttress. In my case, it was a photo in Nihon Tozan Taikei, volume 7, that set me going …

Alpine Workman (and civil servant) inspects the Dome in Takidani.

The next step was suggested by a Japanese friend who had recently joined us. His idea was for our alpine group to join the Japan Workers’ Alpine Federation (Rōsan, or the Nihon Kinrōsha Sangakurenmei). This we did, in early 1992, becoming one of about 70 clubs in the Shinjuku bloc, and after that we called ourselves – or at least I did – the Alpine Workmen.

Alpine Workman (and industrial engineer) on Tsurugi-dake, Genjiro Ridge.

From that time onwards, our club calendar was probably little different from any other Rōsan club: November: winter skills refreshment climb on Mt Fuji; from January, yama-skiing, March: snow training at Tanigawa-dake, perhaps with a climb of Kuro-one; Golden Week: gasshuku on skis, eg Tsurugi-dake, Genjirō-one; June, rock-climbing and sawa-nobori, August; alpine climbing gasshuku, perhaps on Tsurugi D-Face … and so on.

Alpine Workmen taking liquid refreshment in Akagi-sawa.

A sociologist might have had an interesting time with us. Our founder president was rising up the ranks of a well-known machinery maker, our secretary helped to run an American bank’s credit card scheme, while other members worked for MITI, universities, a law firm, an international food company, an oil company, and so on. As of mid-1995, the membership roll listed ten Japanese, two Brits, three Americans, two Canadians, two Kiwis and one German. At different times, we also had Australian, Danish and Dutch members.

But nationalities were much less important than specialisms. If you wanted to prospect a big river gorge, then Sawa Control was your man. If snowholes, then it was Matsuo the Setsudo Sensei. If big walls, young Ken or Allan, and so on. If there was one common theme, it might just be that most of us originated in the inaka (Shikoku, Oxfordshire, Christchurch etc). But even that wasn’t true for everybody – one of us came from New York, and her father had helped to build the Apollo Lunar Module at Grumman Aerospace. 

I used to think of us as being part of the “present”. Of course, that can’t hold any longer. Although the IAC itself has successor organisations in both the Kanto and Kansai, our own alpine association ceased to exist decades ago. So we are in every sense history, just like the Mountain Goats of Kobe, about whom we knew nothing at that time. 

So what is going on right now?

Wednesday, June 18, 2025

Images and ink (54)


Image
: Everest in winter, by courtesy of Alpine Light & Structure.

Ink: The Magic Mountain (1924) by Thomas Mann, translated by H T Lowe-Porter.

One afternoon in February, the gentlemen arranged an excursion to Monstein, some hour and a half from the village by sleigh. … The cold was severe, the mountains misty. The road, a narrow, railingless shelf between mountain wall and abyss, rose steeply into the fir forests. They disentangled themselves from their wraps and climbed out in front of the little Monstein inn, that called itself a Kurhaus, and went on foot a few steps further to get the view south-west toward the Stulsergrat. The gigantic wall, three thousand metres high, was shrouded in vapours. Only one jagged tooth reared itself heavenward out of the mist — superterrestrial, Valhallan, far and faint and awesomely inaccessible. Hans Castorp admired it immensely, and summoned the others to follow suit. It was he who with due respect dubbed it inaccessible — and afforded Settembrini the chance of saying that this particular rock was considerably frequented. And, in general, that there were few spots where man had not set his foot. That was rather tall talk, retorted Naphta; and mentioned Mount Everest, which to date had icily refused to surrender to man’s importunity, and seemed likely to continue to do so. The humanist was put out. They returned to the Kurhaus, before which stood other unharnessed sleighs beside their own.


Monday, June 16, 2025

Tales of past and present (5)

Continued: a talk about foreign explorers of Japan's mountains, then and now.

The Great Tokyo Earthquake marked a kind of boundary in history. It’s difficult to generalise what effect it had on mountaineers, Japanese or foreign. That said, it’s hard to find any full-length book written by a foreign mountaineer in Japan after 1923, at least in English.

Murray Walton (centre) with companion and guide at Yarisawa.
Illustration from Scrambles in Japan and Formosa.

The prominent exception is Scrambles in Japan and Formosa published in 1934 by W. H. Murray Walton (b. 1890). Murray Walton climbed Niitaka-yama on Taiwan, the “new highest mountain” in the Japanese Empire, traversed the Southern Japan Alps from end to end, and made climbs in the Central and Northern Alps too. 

Daihasenzan, a mountain of Taiwan.
Illustration from Scrambles in Japan and Formosa.

Like his acquaintance Walter Weston,  Murray Walton was a missionary and was fascinated by the Ontake religion, visiting the mountain three times. He knew and climbed with several prominent MGK members (for example, the Reverend W H Elwin, and the American diplomat Eugene Dooman) but doesn’t mention the club in his book. On the other hand, he was a proud member of the JAC for at least 15 years.

A seance on Ontake.
Illustration from Scrambles in Japan and Formosa

After Murray Walton, foreign climbers in Japan go very quiet. Was that due to the earthquake or Japan’s growing international isolation? Or did foreigners simply stop writing books? It seems that the drop in activity was real. Kojima Usui, who wrote the foreword to Murray Walton’s book, says this: “In recent years there have been, however, fewer foreign residents interested in mountaineering. Their enthusiasm too seems to be decreasing.”

One possible explanation comes from the scholar-diplomat Edwin Reischauer, who as the son of missionaries, was brought up in Japan. As he recalls in My Life Between Japan and America:

During the 1930s, when the police were becoming increasingly suspicious of all foreigners as potential spies and one was constantly subjected to police interrogation while traveling, my birth in Japan served as a form of passport. A policeman, after dutifully questioning my identity, what I was doing, and where I was going, all of which was already recorded in his notebook, would then frequently ask me about my attitude toward the Japanese government or the current aggression Japan was engaged in on the continent. 

Indeed, the enthusiasm of foreign mountaineers took a long time to rekindle. In the 1950s and 1960s, Japan saw an enormous resurgence of hiking and alpinism, especially after the first ascent of Manaslu in May 1956.

May 9, 1956: first ascent of Manaslu by a JAC expedition.

But where were the foreigners during this so-called Manaslu boom? In English, at least, I can’t find much writing about the Japanese mountains during these decades. 

Well-thumbed copy of the JNTO guide, with a roughly contemporaneous carabiner.

And there was certainly no up-to-date guidebook to Japan’s mountains for foreigners, although the official Japan National Tourist Office guide did its best to include mountain-related advice. My copy, dated February 1975, recommends the Ochūdo-meguri on Mt Fuji as “a delightful summer excursion”. I hope that bit has been updated in more recent editions, or somebody is in for a shock.

A first sign of renewed foreign interest in Japan’s mountains came from Oscar Benl (1914–86), a professor of Japanese literature, who translated Inoue Yasushi’s Hyōheki into German as Die Eiswand in 1979. Benl studied at Tokyo University before the war, and submitted his doctorate on the ideals of Zeami, the noh master, in 1943.


Professor Benl also translated works by Murasaki Shikibu, Yoshida Kenkō, Shiga Naoya, Ibuse Masuji, Kawabata Yasunari, Dazai Osamu, Mishima Yukio, Tanizaki Jun'ichirō, Funabashi Seiichi and Abe Kōbō. He was Germany’s retort to Donald Keene. Why did he pick Hyōheki in particular? (He translated Inoue’s Tempyō no iraka (The rooftile of Tempyō) and Ryōjū (The hunting gun) too). Perhaps it was because his first academic post was in Munich, the capital city of German alpinism. But this is just a guess…

Sunday, June 15, 2025

First steps to climbing (15): "loose rocks play strange tricks"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

It has often been asked whether a knowledge of geology is any use in climbing. Authorities, mostly theorists, differ on this point, but the writer has found it of no service.

The crucial pitch on Moss Ghyll, Scafell - the lower figure is
A D Godley, Fellow and Tutor of Magdalen College, Oxford.
Photo by the Abraham Brothers (detail), reprinted in A Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

In many climbs with famous geologists the science has never asserted itself in any practical way. Loose structures certainly interest them most, and the fact that occasionally no stone has been left unturned in their efforts summitwards may prove trying to those below in a crumbling gully.

Truth to tell, loose sections on a mountain, big or little, may occur unexpectedly to the most skilled scientist, and the climber needs all his skill and care on such places. No thoughts can be spared for fossils or faults – only faults of judgment matter. Great discernment is necessary in the use of loose holds. The general plan is to distribute the weight as much as possible on as many holds as are available.

Loose rocks play strange tricks, and the beginner should, as far as possible, avoid notorious places. Large pieces as big as a cenotaph will frequently stand firm whilst one man mounts over them and the following climber may bring down the whole mass.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

Wednesday, June 11, 2025

Tales of past and present (4)

Continued: a talk about foreign explorers of Japan's mountains, then and now.

Among the many foreigners to fall under Mt Fuji's spell, Frederick Starr (1858–1933) may have been the most enigmatic. Starr was a lecturer and professor at the University of Chicago for more than thirty years. 

Frederick Starr
As an anthropologist and ethnographer, he first came to Japan in 1904 because he’d taken an interest in the Ainu. In addition to studying them, however, he wrote up a short biography (1916) of Matsuura Takeshirō, who explored Ezo (now Hokkaidō) in the mid-nineteenth century.

During subsequent Japan trips, Starr started collecting charms (ofuda) and votive slips (senjafuda or nōsatsu). This earned him the nickname of Ofuda-Hakase (お札博士). It also led him to Mt Fuji. He walked around its foot in 1913, climbed to the summit in 1917 and 1919, and in the same year walked the Ochūdo-meguri – all this in the cotton robes of a pilgrim.

In 1924, Starr published his book, Fujiyama: The Sacred Mountain of Japan – even now, this is one of the few full-length books about Mt Fuji by a foreign author. In the frontispiece photo, we see him with Shibata Reiichi (1840–1920), the twelfth leader of Shintō Jikkōkyō, a Fuji-centred sect which traces its origins back to Fujidō, founded by Hasegawa Kakugyō (1541–1646). 

Frederick Starr with Shibata Reiichi.
Illustration from Fujiyama.

This suggests that Starr went to considerable efforts to research his book, which aimed to reveal “an attitude of mind” towards Mt Fuji and perhaps all sacred mountains. But the book is dedicated not to Shibata but to Sogabe Ikko. 

Portrait of Sogabe Ikko.
Illustration from Fujiyama.

Sogabe had guided Starr on all his ascents of Mt Fuji – the two had met at a study group, the Nōsatsu-kai. Sogabe loved Mt Fuji and had climbed it almost a hundred times, we are told, and he probably provided Starr with some of his more unique material. Sogabe had started writing his own book on Mt Fuji in 1919, with a view to summing up his lifelong researches into the mountain.

"Lake Gamanaka (sic) seen through the rift in clouds".
Illustration and original caption from Fujiyama.

Sogabe was generous with this knowledge. On August 31, 1923 he called on Starr, saying that he would like to show his manuscript to Starr. They agreed to meet again a month later and spend the whole day poring over Sogabe’s manuscript.

That meeting never took place: on September 1, the great earthquake destroyed Sogabe’s house along with most of Tokyo and Yokohama. Sogabe was burned to death while trying to rescue his manuscript from the fire that ensued. 

Monument to Frederick Starr, Mt Fuji Subashiri Route.

Starr survived the earthquake, his hotel in Yokohama having survived the initial shock, and lived on until 1933. There is a monument to him above the Sengen Shrine on the Mt Fuji Subashiri route. Yet so many questions remain unanswered. Who was Sogabe? What kind of a book was he trying to write? And should we see Fujiyama as an attempt by Starr to rescue something of Sogabe's legacy?


Endpapers of Frederick Starr's Fujiyama.




Tuesday, June 10, 2025

First steps to climbing (14): "needs the utmost coolness"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

In fact, it will be obvious that this ready alertness is especially necessary during Alpine ascents – it is the key to success with safety. Presence of mind in sudden emergency, such as the appearance of falling stones, is of tremendous importance.

"Hold tight! A sudden slip into a snow-masked crevasse on the Jungfrau."
Original caption and photo from First Steps to Climbing

There is one startling event which though an ever-present risk, seldom happens in snow and ice climbing. That is a serious slip on a steep slope. A whole party may be dragged out of their steps, and with unnerving suddenness all the probabilities of tragedy are present.

To arrest the downward rush great resourcefulness is needed. It is absolutely no use to try to stop oneself by plunging the pick end of the axe into a hard snow-slope. It will instantly be dragged from the hands and left up above.

The proper mode of arresting progress is to grip the head of the ice-axe firmly and lie on it about chest-high, meanwhile gradually using the pick as a brake. Whole parties have been brought to a halt by this seemingly simple method, which to apply in actual practice needs the utmost coolness and ready skill.

These latter traits, added to a sporting unselfishness, seem a heritage of the Briton, and their reality is never more in evidence than in the sport of mountaineering. Alpinists of all nations appreciate these points, and it behoves our countrymen to uphold the worthy and glorious traditions of the past.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

Friday, June 6, 2025

Tales of past and present (3)

Continued: a talk about foreign explorers of Japan's mountains, then and now.

Of course, clubs are never the whole story – just as Kojima’s companion on Yari, Okano Kinjirō, never joined the JAC, so some foreigners had no interest in joining a club. One such lone wolf was Thomas Orde-Lees (1877–1958). 

Today we would call him an ‘adrenalin junkie’. After serving in the Royal Marines, he signed up for Shackleton’s disastrous Antarctic expedition. This sailed from London, in August 1914, just as Walter Weston was about to traverse Ōtenshō-dake.

Having survived the four-month wait to be rescued on Elephant Island, Orde-Lees joined the Balloon Corps on the Western Front. By the end of the First World War, he was an officer in the Royal Flying Corps, where he became an advocate for the use of parachutes. To prove their effectiveness, he once jumped from Tower Bridge into the River Thames.

Parachute pioneer: Orde-Lees plummets from Tower Bridge.

After the war, he came to Japan to teach parachuting techniques at the Imperial Navy’s Kasumigaura airbase. It was during this assignment that he thought of climbing Mt Fuji in winter – under the impression that he would be the first to do so. Clearly, he was ill-informed: that honour already belonged to Nonaka Itaru (1867–1955), who had reached the top as long ago as February 1895. And, very probably, other foreigners had preceded Orde-Lees too.

Like Nonaka before him, Orde-Lees failed on his first attempt, after he and a companion met with a “hurricane”. This was in January 1922. On February 10 they came back, dragging a home-made sledge made from the wreckage of a crashed aeroplane. 

Overnighting at the Tarōbō hut, they climbed the mountain on snowshoes as far as the sixth station and thereafter on home-made crampons screwed to the soles of their boots. The ice-axes came from a shop called Mimatsu at 8 yen apiece and they used parachute harness tape as a makeshift alpine rope.

Avro 504K, as cannibalised by Thomas Orde-Lees.
Image courtesy of Kovozavody Prostejov. 

The climb to the summit took twelve hours. To mark their high point, they tied to a rock near the summit hut the “aluminium foot-rest from the rudder-bar of an AVRO aeroplane …”

Avro 504K: arrow indicates the "aluminium footrest from the rudder-bar".

So there is a small mystery – has anybody ever found that “aluminium foot-rest” near the top of the Gotemba-guchi on Fuji-san? If so, I’m sure that it should be in a museum somewhere.

By the way, the account of these Fuji climbs was reprinted in Inaka vol 16, although it first appeared in the Japan Chronicle of February 19, 1922 – I doubt if Orde-Lees was a member of the MGK.

This was a somewhat frivolous digression. But there is a serious point to it. Orde-Lees’s Mt Fuji climb was a byproduct of the Anglo-Japanese Alliance (1902–23). It was the military cooperation implicit in the Alliance that brought him to Japan. We like to think that our mountaineering floats somehow untethered above the lower world. But mountaineers are, in fact, swept along in the current of history like everybody else. 



Rock pinnacles on Myogi.
Plates from Douglas Freshfield's report on his Japan tour.
Courtesy of the Alpine Journal.

Speaking of that Alliance, between 1900 and 1923 no fewer than three of the British Alpine Club’s Presidents visited Japan, where of course the Japanese Alpine Club gave them a warm welcome. The most prominent, Douglas Freshfield (1845–1934) made a visit in October 1913 and climbed Myōgi. He too used Murray’s guidebook and consulted Walter Weston. Permit me to share some of his pictures…