Reappraising the Abraham brothers (1)

They took mountain photography to another level – but was it Art? 

Back in March, I dropped into Jimbōchō, Tokyo’s used book district, on the first day of its annual festival. This yielded a musty copy of George D Abraham’s First Steps to Climbing, published in 1923 by Mills & Boon, Limited. Yes, that Mills & Boon – the back papers advertise the kind of titles that the publisher is still best known for, such as Miss Pretty in the Wood, Elizabeth Who Wouldn't, and Love and Chiffon…

The Abraham brothers, Ashley and George, in the 1930s.
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

We digress. To share George Abraham’s quirky yet often pertinent climbing advice, this blog then posted a series of excerpts from his book, with the accompanying photos. Which prompted reader Stephen50 to put up some perceptive comments highlighting both the quality of the Abraham brothers’ photography and the existence of a biography, Camera on the Crags by Alan Hankinson.

Climbers in Easter Gully on Dow Crag (detail).
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

Intrigued, I reached for a copy of this genial and informative book, which explained just why the Abrahams were such skilled image-makers. For George (1871–1965) and his brother Ashley (1876–1951) were professionals, both born and bred. Their father, George Perry Abraham (1844–1923), founded and owned a successful photography business in Keswick, in the English Lake District – a business that, in turn, passed to Ashley’s son.

On Tryfan's Central Buttress.
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

So they had already inherited their photographic smarts by the early 1890s, when they set about learning to rock-climb. This they did on their own bat, which probably explains why George Abraham opined in First Steps that “For a party of beginners the most effective plan, and that which really produces the best climbers, is to tackle the rocks unaided and rely on their own initiative” – a view not widely endorsed today.

Owen Glynne Jones climbing on gritstone.
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

But what lofted the brothers into the big league of mountain photography was their partnership with Owen Glynne Jones (1867–1899). By profession a physics teacher in London, Jones was then at the forefront of the rock-climbing scene. A fluent writer, he was working on a climber’s guide to the Lake District, but needed somebody to make the photographs. In the Abraham brothers, he found just the team he was looking for. 

Alpinists on the way to the Fiescherhorn, Bernese Oberland.
Image from George D Abraham, Swiss Mountain Climbs.

From early 1897, for a brief two years, the brothers climbed with Jones in both the Lake District and North Wales. During that time, the brothers also went to the Alps for the first time, although not with Jones. They even talked with him about an expedition to Kanchenjunga. George Abraham advanced his climbing skills and made friends within the climbing community, while it was Ashley who more often than not tended the camera on narrow ledges.

An Underwood "Instanto".
Image by courtesy of antiquewoodcameras.com.

And what a camera! Manufactured by E & T Underwood of 130–2 Granville Street, Birmingham, the “Instanto” was little more than a mahogany frame supporting a leather bellows that could be racked in and out for focus. Shutter? Forget it: after propping the camera on a sturdy tripod, focusing onto a ground glass screen and inserting a dry plate, the photographer removed and replaced the lens cap for an estimated exposure time of, say, a second or more. By today’s norms, the name “Instanto” extravagantly violated any law of trade descriptions.

Climbers on Napes Needle (also styled the Aiguille du Nuque).
Image from Alan Hankinson's Camera on the Crags.

Yet, when viewed in the generously sized plates of Alan Hankinson’s book, the results speak for themselves. The compositions breathe a sense of classical repose, enforced by those lengthy exposure times that froze the climbers by necessity into statuesque poses. But this was only a part of it. 

On the Cuillin Ridge, Skye.
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

A typical Abrahams photo never fails to bring out the shadow detail, revealing the texture and detail of the rocks in an opulent, luminous granularity. This they achieved partly from their attention to lighting – diffuse, if possible, and ideally from a three-quarter angle, over the photographer’s shoulder. But development times and tricks must also have played a role. Unfortunately, these are lost to history: the brothers wrote little or nothing about their photographic techniques. 

The Cioch, Skye.
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

On a good day, the Abrahams could give even photographic masters such as Georges Tairraz of Chamonix (1868–1924) a run for their money – like themselves, Tairraz represented the second generation of a photographic dynasty. Although any recognition for their skills from that direction was distinctly back-handed. Several of their photos, records George in First Steps to Climbing,  “appeared surreptitiously in Alpine centres with French titles, as though they portrayed bits on the Chamonix aiguilles. The Napes Needle was unmistakable, even titled as the Aiguille du Nuque…” 

On Pillar East Face (detail).
Image from Alan Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

Alas, the Abraham brothers' rock-climbing apprenticeship with O G Jones was all too short. In August 1899, their mentor fell to his death along with his three guides from the Ferpècle Arête of the Dent Blanche. The accident horrified the climbing world, even leaving its mark on a famous Japanese novel....

(To be continued)

Tales of past and present (7)

Concluded: a talk about foreign explorers of Japan's mountains, then and now.

So what is going on now? A big difference today is the internet and social media – this may reduce the need for clubs, because you can find partners and get all the information about hiking and climbing conditions online, via Yamap and Yamareco. Anyway, I'm not aware of any international hiking and mountaineering club like the Mountain Goats of Kobe at the moment.

Foreigners are still climbing technical routes in Japan, perhaps more than ever now that guiding services exist. One key source of information is a website run by Tony Grant (right), who works for the British Council. He learned to rock climb in the UK, and followed that up with alpine climbing in Poland. When he came to Japan – this was nearly two decades ago – he started climbing with other expatriates, but then started investigating Japanese climbing guidebooks.

In the end, he started publishing his own route descriptions on Climb Japan!, his English-language website, and he has published two ebooks with a selection of classic routes – including Yari’s Kitakama One, Chūōryō and Nanryō in Tanigawa-dake’s Ichinokura-sawa, Shirouma Shuryō, and other favourites.

Another big change since the 1990s is the Nihon Hyakumeizan boom among foreign climbers. For many, the first inspiration came from Lonely Planet’s Hiking in Japan, published in 2001, which had a text box describing the Hyakumeizan concept – one of the authors was Craig McLachlan, a New Zealander who climbed all 100 mountains in the summer of 1997 and published a book about this feat.

The Lonely Planet Guide is long out of print, but that doesn’t matter. Thanks to blogging – in Japanese, English and German and probably other languages too – there is a wealth of information online. One of the first such websites on the scene was Wes Lang’s Hiking in Japan, which has all the information you need for each of the 100 mountains. And you'll find more excellent guidance in the links in this blog's sidebar, including David Lowe's Ridgeline Images, Emma Goto's hiking blog, Willie Banff's On Higher Ground, and Ben Hentschel's Meizan Memories.

Wes Lang tops out on his 100th mountain in 2008.

Wes teaches English writing at two universities in the Kansai – he lives on Ikoma-yama, of course, one of the highest places in the region – and he completed his round of the Hyakumeizan in 2008, the first American to do so. So his website is a key resource for Hyakumeizan hunters who don’t read Japanese.

But that wasn’t enough for Wes – feeling that there was a gap after the Lonely Planet guide went out of print, he teamed up with an English friend, Tom Fay, and compiled a detailed guide to hiking in the Japan Alps, North, South and Central. The book also covers the four main routes on Mt Fuji. It came out in 2019 and is now the only current guidebook in English to Japan’s high mountains.

As we have seen, guidebooks can be influential. The one by Satow and Hawes set Walter Weston on his way, while Lonely Planet fomented a mini-Hyakumeizan boom among foreigners. (By the way, some foreign mountaineers are already pursuing the 200 and 300 famous mountains). It’s too early to say what influence Fay and Lang will have, but please watch this space. Something will happen for sure. 

And this brings us to the future.

Some parts of the future won't look so different from the past, I would imagine. Earlier, I mentioned the foreign botanists who travelled the mountains in the Meiji era. Well, they still do.

For example, there is a very rare birch tree found only in the Chichibu mountains and nowhere else in the world. I read that botanists at Oxford University and Tokyo University are working together to preserve it – the seeds are being kept at several different places, including Kew Gardens in London – the very same institution where your founder member Takeda Hisayoshi came to study from 1910 onwards.

Then again, mountaineering is always being re-imagined. “Mais des rêves, il en faut toujours. Je les préfère aux souvenirs,” said Gaston Rébuffat (1921–1985)( But dreams we must have and, all the time, I prefer dreams to memories).

You could spend a lifetime climbing Japan’s classic routes and the Hyakumeizan. And, for most of us, that’s more than enough. At the same time, a few pioneers now and again dream up a completely new way to read the landscape. I’m thinking here of Tanaka Yōki, who completed the Hyakumeizan with “human power” only. Or Shimizu Tetsuya, who soloed all the Kurobe gorges and made a winter traverse of the Shiretoko Peninsula.

It will be interesting to see how foreign climbers too choose to exert their imaginations in the mountains of Japan….

References

A Japanese-language version of this talk was given at the Ryokusōkai on 29 March 2025 at the offices of the Japanese Alpine Club. It drew on the following sources, among others:

Freshfield, Douglas, “A Playground at the East End: Rambles in Japan”, Alpine Journal, 1914.

Ion, Hamish, “Mountaineering in Japan: British Pioneers and the Pre-war Japanese Alpine Club” in Hugh Cortazzi (ed), Britain & Japan Biographical Portraits, Vol IX, Amsterdam University Press, 2015.

Kuwada, Gonpei, Biography of Benjamin Smith Lyman, Tokyo: Sanseidō, January 1937.

Mizuno, Tsutomu, “Meiji shoki no Nihon ni okeru gaikokujin no tozan katsudo ni tsuite”, JAC Yama, 1976 (series).

Murray Walton, W. H., Scrambles in Japan and Formosa, Edward Arnold, 1934.

New York Times, "Saving a Rare Tree Worlds Away", 26 October 2015.

Nunokawa Kin’ichi, “Nihon no yama to gaikokujin” in Hito wa naze yama ni noboru no ka, Taiyo Bessatsu, no 103, Autumn 1998.

Nunokawa Kin’ichi (ed), Me de miru Nihon no tozanshi, Yama to keikoku-sha, November 2005.

Starr, Frederick, Fujiyama: the Sacred Mountain of Japan, Chicago: Covici-McGee, 1924.

Weston, Walter, The Playground of the Far East, John Murray, 1918.

And many thanks for a great deal of invaluable advice and guidance from Ohmori Hisao (Japanese Alpine Club), Iain Williams (Toyohashi Alpine Club), Wes Lang and Harumi Hood (Fukui Alpine Club).

Images and ink (55)

Image: Frontispiece from Upon that Mountain (1943) by Eric Shipton.

Ink: Eric Shipton's thoughts on "Large Expeditions" particularly those of the 1930s to Everest, from Chapter Eight of Upon that Mountain. 

Finally, the disadvantage of large expeditions lay in the fact that the necessity of raising big funds made it difficult to control publicity. The expeditions became invested with a glamour foreign to the fundamental simplicity of the game. It was quite natural that mountaineers should wish to climb the highest peak in the world, or at least be interested in the project. But unfortunately Everest’s supremacy among mountains appealed to the popular imagination of a record-breaking age, and gradually the expeditions began to receive a press publicity out of all proportion to the value of the undertaking, and certainly out of keeping with what used to be regarded as "the best traditions of mountaineering”…

I knew a man with a strong claim for a place on the expedition who said that he wanted to climb Everest so as to make a big name for himself, which would enable him to use his influence in the cause of world peace. A worthy ambition, no doubt, but surely it would have been more profitable to devote his energies to the study of political economy rather than to proving himself a mountaineer with an exceptionally large lung capacity or whatever it is that enables a man to climb to great altitudes. This is one example among many of an extraordinary distortion of values which has its roots in the opening of a short-cut to fame. Were it not so laughable it might well be resented by those who find in mountaineering a deep aesthetic pleasure.

Tales of past and present (6)

Continued: a talk about foreign explorers of Japan's mountains, then and now.

As remarked in the previous post, it took a long time for foreigners to recover their enthusiasm for the Japanese mountains. When they did, new highways and Shinkansen routes may have played a part: in the late 1980s and 1990s, the Japan Alps started to come within the regular weekend range of big city dwellers for the first time.

Paul Hunt atop Shiomi-dake (3,046.9 metres).
Illustration from Paul Hunt's Hiking in Japan.

In 1988, at long last, a new English-language guidebook came out. This was Paul Hunt’s Hiking in Japan. Hunt was well qualified to write on the mountains, having graduated in geology and later working as a meteorologist. He came to Japan in 1978 to work with a team exploring for oil in the Japan Sea (following in the prospecting footsteps of Benjamin Smith Lyman). In the introduction to his book, Hunt mentions several mountain-related associations including the JAC, the Friends of the Earth, and the International Adventure Club.

The guidebook that launched a thousand mountain trips ...

The International Adventure Club, Hunt says, is "a group of foreigners and Japanese who organize hiking, rock climbing, and skiing trips out of Tokyo. They have monthly meetings in Tokyo and issue a newsletter. They can be contacted through Dave Parry or Yuko Nakano…."

In Early Heisei or thereabouts, in the early 1990s, a number of foreign climbers must have phoned Dave or Yuko – indeed, I was one of them. This small group had a smattering of experience in the European Alps and we wanted to try out some routes in the Japan Alps – somehow we had got to hear about Takidani and Kita-dake Buttress. In my case, it was a photo in Nihon Tozan Taikei, volume 7, that set me going …

Alpine Workman (and civil servant) inspects the Dome in Takidani.

The next step was suggested by a Japanese friend who had recently joined us. His idea was for our alpine group to join the Japan Workers’ Alpine Federation (Rōsan, or the Nihon Kinrōsha Sangakurenmei). This we did, in early 1992, becoming one of about 70 clubs in the Shinjuku bloc, and after that we called ourselves – or at least I did – the Alpine Workmen.

Alpine Workman (and industrial engineer) on Tsurugi-dake, Genjiro Ridge.

From that time onwards, our club calendar was probably little different from any other Rōsan club: November: winter skills refreshment climb on Mt Fuji; from January, yama-skiing, March: snow training at Tanigawa-dake, perhaps with a climb of Kuro-one; Golden Week: gasshuku on skis, eg Tsurugi-dake, Genjirō-one; June, rock-climbing and sawa-nobori, August; alpine climbing gasshuku, perhaps on Tsurugi D-Face … and so on.

Alpine Workmen taking liquid refreshment in Akagi-sawa.

A sociologist might have had an interesting time with us. Our founder president was rising up the ranks of a well-known machinery maker, our secretary helped to run an American bank’s credit card scheme, while other members worked for MITI, universities, a law firm, an international food company, an oil company, and so on. As of mid-1995, the membership roll listed ten Japanese, two Brits, three Americans, two Canadians, two Kiwis and one German. At different times, we also had Australian, Danish and Dutch members.

But nationalities were much less important than specialisms. If you wanted to prospect a big river gorge, then Sawa Control was your man. If snowholes, then it was Matsuo the Setsudo Sensei. If big walls, young Ken or Allan, and so on. If there was one common theme, it might just be that most of us originated in the inaka (Shikoku, Oxfordshire, Christchurch etc). But even that wasn’t true for everybody – one of us came from New York, and her father had helped to build the Apollo Lunar Module at Grumman Aerospace. 

I used to think of us as being part of the “present”. Of course, that can’t hold any longer. Although the IAC itself has successor organisations in both the Kanto and Kansai, our own alpine association ceased to exist decades ago. So we are in every sense history, just like the Mountain Goats of Kobe, about whom we knew nothing at that time. 

So what is going on right now?

(Continued)

Images and ink (54)

Image: Everest in winter, by courtesy of Alpine Light & Structure.

Ink: The Magic Mountain (1924) by Thomas Mann, translated by H T Lowe-Porter.

One afternoon in February, the gentlemen arranged an excursion to Monstein, some hour and a half from the village by sleigh. … The cold was severe, the mountains misty. The road, a narrow, railingless shelf between mountain wall and abyss, rose steeply into the fir forests. They disentangled themselves from their wraps and climbed out in front of the little Monstein inn, that called itself a Kurhaus, and went on foot a few steps further to get the view south-west toward the Stulsergrat. The gigantic wall, three thousand metres high, was shrouded in vapours. Only one jagged tooth reared itself heavenward out of the mist — superterrestrial, Valhallan, far and faint and awesomely inaccessible. Hans Castorp admired it immensely, and summoned the others to follow suit. It was he who with due respect dubbed it inaccessible — and afforded Settembrini the chance of saying that this particular rock was considerably frequented. And, in general, that there were few spots where man had not set his foot. That was rather tall talk, retorted Naphta; and mentioned Mount Everest, which to date had icily refused to surrender to man’s importunity, and seemed likely to continue to do so. The humanist was put out. They returned to the Kurhaus, before which stood other unharnessed sleighs beside their own.

Tales of past and present (5)

Continued: a talk about foreign explorers of Japan's mountains, then and now.

The Great Tokyo Earthquake marked a kind of boundary in history. It’s difficult to generalise what effect it had on mountaineers, Japanese or foreign. That said, it’s hard to find any full-length book written by a foreign mountaineer in Japan after 1923, at least in English.

Murray Walton (centre) with companion and guide at Yarisawa.
Illustration from Scrambles in Japan and Formosa.

The prominent exception is Scrambles in Japan and Formosa published in 1934 by W. H. Murray Walton (b. 1890). Murray Walton climbed Niitaka-yama on Taiwan, the “new highest mountain” in the Japanese Empire, traversed the Southern Japan Alps from end to end, and made climbs in the Central and Northern Alps too. 

Daihasenzan, a mountain of Taiwan.
Illustration from Scrambles in Japan and Formosa.

Like his acquaintance Walter Weston,  Murray Walton was a missionary and was fascinated by the Ontake religion, visiting the mountain three times. He knew and climbed with several prominent MGK members (for example, the Reverend W H Elwin, and the American diplomat Eugene Dooman) but doesn’t mention the club in his book. On the other hand, he was a proud member of the JAC for at least 15 years.

A seance on Ontake.
Illustration from Scrambles in Japan and Formosa. 

After Murray Walton, foreign climbers in Japan go very quiet. Was that due to the earthquake or Japan’s growing international isolation? Or did foreigners simply stop writing books? It seems that the drop in activity was real. Kojima Usui, who wrote the foreword to Murray Walton’s book, says this: “In recent years there have been, however, fewer foreign residents interested in mountaineering. Their enthusiasm too seems to be decreasing.”

One possible explanation comes from the scholar-diplomat Edwin Reischauer, who as the son of missionaries, was brought up in Japan. As he recalls in My Life Between Japan and America:

During the 1930s, when the police were becoming increasingly suspicious of all foreigners as potential spies and one was constantly subjected to police interrogation while traveling, my birth in Japan served as a form of passport. A policeman, after dutifully questioning my identity, what I was doing, and where I was going, all of which was already recorded in his notebook, would then frequently ask me about my attitude toward the Japanese government or the current aggression Japan was engaged in on the continent. 

Indeed, the enthusiasm of foreign mountaineers took a long time to rekindle. In the 1950s and 1960s, Japan saw an enormous resurgence of hiking and alpinism, especially after the first ascent of Manaslu in May 1956.

May 9, 1956: first ascent of Manaslu by a JAC expedition.

But where were the foreigners during this so-called Manaslu boom? In English, at least, I can’t find much writing about the Japanese mountains during these decades. 

Well-thumbed copy of the JNTO guide, with a roughly contemporaneous carabiner.

And there was certainly no up-to-date guidebook to Japan’s mountains for foreigners, although the official Japan National Tourist Office guide did its best to include mountain-related advice. My copy, dated February 1975, recommends the Ochūdo-meguri on Mt Fuji as “a delightful summer excursion”. I hope that bit has been updated in more recent editions, or somebody is in for a shock.

A first sign of renewed foreign interest in Japan’s mountains came from Oscar Benl (1914–86), a professor of Japanese literature, who translated Inoue Yasushi’s Hyōheki into German as Die Eiswand in 1979. Benl studied at Tokyo University before the war, and submitted his doctorate on the ideals of Zeami, the noh master, in 1943.

Professor Benl also translated works by Murasaki Shikibu, Yoshida Kenkō, Shiga Naoya, Ibuse Masuji, Kawabata Yasunari, Dazai Osamu, Mishima Yukio, Tanizaki Jun'ichirō, Funabashi Seiichi and Abe Kōbō. He was Germany’s retort to Donald Keene. Why did he pick Hyōheki in particular? (He translated Inoue’s Tempyō no iraka (The rooftile of Tempyō) and Ryōjū (The hunting gun) too). Perhaps it was because his first academic post was in Munich, the capital city of German alpinism. But this is just a guess…

(Continued)

First steps to climbing (15): "loose rocks play strange tricks"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

It has often been asked whether a knowledge of geology is any use in climbing. Authorities, mostly theorists, differ on this point, but the writer has found it of no service.

The crucial pitch on Moss Ghyll, Scafell - the lower figure is
A D Godley, Fellow and Tutor of Magdalen College, Oxford.
Photo by the Abraham Brothers (detail), reprinted in A Hankinson, Camera on the Crags.

In many climbs with famous geologists the science has never asserted itself in any practical way. Loose structures certainly interest them most, and the fact that occasionally no stone has been left unturned in their efforts summitwards may prove trying to those below in a crumbling gully.

Truth to tell, loose sections on a mountain, big or little, may occur unexpectedly to the most skilled scientist, and the climber needs all his skill and care on such places. No thoughts can be spared for fossils or faults – only faults of judgment matter. Great discernment is necessary in the use of loose holds. The general plan is to distribute the weight as much as possible on as many holds as are available.

Loose rocks play strange tricks, and the beginner should, as far as possible, avoid notorious places. Large pieces as big as a cenotaph will frequently stand firm whilst one man mounts over them and the following climber may bring down the whole mass.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

Tales of past and present (4)

Continued: a talk about foreign explorers of Japan's mountains, then and now.

Among the many foreigners to fall under Mt Fuji's spell, Frederick Starr (1858–1933) may have been the most enigmatic. Starr was a lecturer and professor at the University of Chicago for more than thirty years. 

Frederick Starr

As an anthropologist and ethnographer, he first came to Japan in 1904 because he’d taken an interest in the Ainu. In addition to studying them, however, he wrote up a short biography (1916) of Matsuura Takeshirō, who explored Ezo (now Hokkaidō) in the mid-nineteenth century.

During subsequent Japan trips, Starr started collecting charms (ofuda) and votive slips (senjafuda or nōsatsu). This earned him the nickname of Ofuda-Hakase (お札博士). It also led him to Mt Fuji. He walked around its foot in 1913, climbed to the summit in 1917 and 1919, and in the same year walked the Ochūdo-meguri – all this in the cotton robes of a pilgrim.

In 1924, Starr published his book, Fujiyama: The Sacred Mountain of Japan – even now, this is one of the few full-length books about Mt Fuji by a foreign author. In the frontispiece photo, we see him with Shibata Reiichi (1840–1920), the twelfth leader of Shintō Jikkōkyō, a Fuji-centred sect which traces its origins back to Fujidō, founded by Hasegawa Kakugyō (1541–1646). 

Frederick Starr with Shibata Reiichi.
Illustration from Fujiyama.

This suggests that Starr went to considerable efforts to research his book, which aimed to reveal “an attitude of mind” towards Mt Fuji and perhaps all sacred mountains. But the book is dedicated not to Shibata but to Sogabe Ikko. 

Portrait of Sogabe Ikko.
Illustration from Fujiyama.

Sogabe had guided Starr on all his ascents of Mt Fuji – the two had met at a study group, the Nōsatsu-kai. Sogabe loved Mt Fuji and had climbed it almost a hundred times, we are told, and he probably provided Starr with some of his more unique material. Sogabe had started writing his own book on Mt Fuji in 1919, with a view to summing up his lifelong researches into the mountain.

"Lake Gamanaka (sic) seen through the rift in clouds".
Illustration and original caption from Fujiyama.

Sogabe was generous with this knowledge. On August 31, 1923 he called on Starr, saying that he would like to show his manuscript to Starr. They agreed to meet again a month later and spend the whole day poring over Sogabe’s manuscript.

That meeting never took place: on September 1, the great earthquake destroyed Sogabe’s house along with most of Tokyo and Yokohama. Sogabe was burned to death while trying to rescue his manuscript from the fire that ensued. 

Monument to Frederick Starr, Mt Fuji Subashiri Route.

Starr survived the earthquake, his hotel in Yokohama having survived the initial shock, and lived on until 1933. There is a monument to him above the Sengen Shrine on the Mt Fuji Subashiri route. Yet so many questions remain unanswered. Who was Sogabe? What kind of a book was he trying to write? And should we see Fujiyama as an attempt by Starr to rescue something of Sogabe's legacy?

(Continued)

Endpapers of Frederick Starr's Fujiyama.

First steps to climbing (14): "needs the utmost coolness"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

In fact, it will be obvious that this ready alertness is especially necessary during Alpine ascents – it is the key to success with safety. Presence of mind in sudden emergency, such as the appearance of falling stones, is of tremendous importance.

"Hold tight! A sudden slip into a snow-masked crevasse on the Jungfrau."
Original caption and photo from First Steps to Climbing. 

There is one startling event which though an ever-present risk, seldom happens in snow and ice climbing. That is a serious slip on a steep slope. A whole party may be dragged out of their steps, and with unnerving suddenness all the probabilities of tragedy are present.

To arrest the downward rush great resourcefulness is needed. It is absolutely no use to try to stop oneself by plunging the pick end of the axe into a hard snow-slope. It will instantly be dragged from the hands and left up above.

The proper mode of arresting progress is to grip the head of the ice-axe firmly and lie on it about chest-high, meanwhile gradually using the pick as a brake. Whole parties have been brought to a halt by this seemingly simple method, which to apply in actual practice needs the utmost coolness and ready skill.

These latter traits, added to a sporting unselfishness, seem a heritage of the Briton, and their reality is never more in evidence than in the sport of mountaineering. Alpinists of all nations appreciate these points, and it behoves our countrymen to uphold the worthy and glorious traditions of the past.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

Tales of past and present (3)

Continued: a talk about foreign explorers of Japan's mountains, then and now.

Of course, clubs are never the whole story – just as Kojima’s companion on Yari, Okano Kinjirō, never joined the JAC, so some foreigners had no interest in joining a club. One such lone wolf was Thomas Orde-Lees (1877–1958). 

Today we would call him an ‘adrenalin junkie’. After serving in the Royal Marines, he signed up for Shackleton’s disastrous Antarctic expedition. This sailed from London, in August 1914, just as Walter Weston was about to traverse Ōtenshō-dake.

Having survived the four-month wait to be rescued on Elephant Island, Orde-Lees joined the Balloon Corps on the Western Front. By the end of the First World War, he was an officer in the Royal Flying Corps, where he became an advocate for the use of parachutes. To prove their effectiveness, he once jumped from Tower Bridge into the River Thames.

Parachute pioneer: Orde-Lees plummets from Tower Bridge.

After the war, he came to Japan to teach parachuting techniques at the Imperial Navy’s Kasumigaura airbase. It was during this assignment that he thought of climbing Mt Fuji in winter – under the impression that he would be the first to do so. Clearly, he was ill-informed: that honour already belonged to Nonaka Itaru (1867–1955), who had reached the top as long ago as February 1895. And, very probably, other foreigners had preceded Orde-Lees too.

Like Nonaka before him, Orde-Lees failed on his first attempt, after he and a companion met with a “hurricane”. This was in January 1922. On February 10 they came back, dragging a home-made sledge made from the wreckage of a crashed aeroplane. 

Overnighting at the Tarōbō hut, they climbed the mountain on snowshoes as far as the sixth station and thereafter on home-made crampons screwed to the soles of their boots. The ice-axes came from a shop called Mimatsu at 8 yen apiece and they used parachute harness tape as a makeshift alpine rope.

Avro 504K, as cannibalised by Thomas Orde-Lees.
Image courtesy of Kovozavody Prostejov. 

The climb to the summit took twelve hours. To mark their high point, they tied to a rock near the summit hut the “aluminium foot-rest from the rudder-bar of an AVRO aeroplane …”

Avro 504K: arrow indicates the "aluminium footrest from the rudder-bar".

So there is a small mystery – has anybody ever found that “aluminium foot-rest” near the top of the Gotemba-guchi on Fuji-san? If so, I’m sure that it should be in a museum somewhere.

By the way, the account of these Fuji climbs was reprinted in Inaka vol 16, although it first appeared in the Japan Chronicle of February 19, 1922 – I doubt if Orde-Lees was a member of the MGK.

This was a somewhat frivolous digression. But there is a serious point to it. Orde-Lees’s Mt Fuji climb was a byproduct of the Anglo-Japanese Alliance (1902–23). It was the military cooperation implicit in the Alliance that brought him to Japan. We like to think that our mountaineering floats somehow untethered above the lower world. But mountaineers are, in fact, swept along in the current of history like everybody else. 

Rock pinnacles on Myogi.
Plates from Douglas Freshfield's report on his Japan tour.
Courtesy of the Alpine Journal.

Speaking of that Alliance, between 1900 and 1923 no fewer than three of the British Alpine Club’s Presidents visited Japan, where of course the Japanese Alpine Club gave them a warm welcome. The most prominent, Douglas Freshfield (1845–1934) made a visit in October 1913 and climbed Myōgi. He too used Murray’s guidebook and consulted Walter Weston. Permit me to share some of his pictures…

(Continued)

First steps to climbing (13): "usually the amateur pays"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

After deciding on the Alpine district to be visited, the beginner's first step will be the choice of a guide. If the advice of some experienced friend is available, perhaps it may be possible to engage a good man in advance.

Downclimbing the Mönch.
Photo from G D Abraham, First Steps to Climbing.

The very best guides are often reserved a year, or at least a few months ahead, and with these the novice need not trouble. Very few, if any, of the guides are good teachers, but those of the highest class and famous specialists are perhaps worst of all in this respect. The only way to learn is to watch carefully every movement and method of the professional and note especially his methods of approach and selection of points of attack. Even on unknown mountains they seem instinctively to detect the weak places and formulate a route. The intelligent tyro will especially notice this, and questions asked regarding the why and wherefore of peculiar ways of tackling a big peak may be answered, though perhaps not always satisfactorily.

Failing a guide engaged in advance through an expert friend, the best plan is to book one after the arrival, and usually the hotel management will help in this, but some discretion is necessary. A personal interview is advisable, and a good deal can be judged from appearance. Usually a guide who speaks English, more or less, is nowadays to be obtained. Those who tout for jobs at the railway-stations are best avoided, and others who are part of the hotel staff should be chosen warily. 

The question of payment is sometimes troublesome, but this should be properly arranged and understood. In perfectly settled weather, if a really suitable man is available, an engagement for two weeks or more may be made at, for instance, 30 francs a day, whether any climbing takes place or not. This would include ascents of any of the ordinary peaks, and might, with very good fortune, involve six good expeditions in two weeks. 

A little extra payment might be required if certain special peaks or routes were included, and this question should be settled. The amateur would pay for the professional's food and drink during the excursions, and if the guide were engaged away from home, it should be understood who has to pay his hotel bill. Usually the amateur pays.

The other plan is to make no engagement, but pay for each peak by the tariff – that is, the official rate of payment fixed by the guides according to the standard of difficulty of the various peaks round each popular centre. For the average novice this latter plan is probably the best, and by using some tact, if a satisfactory guide is met with, he can be reserved for a succession of ascents. 

It may be noted that riches are not showered upon guides as in pre-war days, and there are more first-class men available. No longer does a wealthy climber hand his guide a sovereign to buy a pair of shoelaces and ask for no change.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

 

First steps to climbing (12): "a sound way of retreat"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

Hints to cragsmen – climbing down: With the exception of one or two famous ascents with the late O. G. Jones, all the writer's rock experience has been gained as the leader on the rope. During this long and still active climbing career numerous useful wrinkles have been learnt and, in this chapter, these practical aids can be mentioned. 

"A study in small footholds": Kern Knotts Crack - Great Gable.
Photo from G D Abraham, The Complete Mountaineer. 

Undoubtedly there are two outstanding and vastly important maxims of advice for the beginner-these are, firstly, climb slowly, and secondly, rely on the skilful use of the feet, not the hands. At the start there is an almost irresistible tendency to “rush” a steep stretch of difficult rock work. The idea is well expressed in the words so often used – "I want to get it over!" This is entirely wrong. "Slow but sure" must be the slogan of the safe climber.

Each movement should be carefully considered. Up to a certain point the balance may be perfectly preserved in relation to the available holds; then an apparently good hold for the fingers may tempt the cragsman to forsake the slow balance method. There may be no support ahead, and he will find himself hung up in such a position that return is, to say the least of it, ungraceful and unpleasant. 

Each forward move should be made with slow deliberation, a change of holds only being made when the new situation is proved sound and promises continuity. Moreover, it is a reliable rule not to push ahead up any excessively desperate place where return is impossible. Some supervening difficulty may necessitate descent. The safe leader always reckons on having a sound way of retreat open.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

First steps to climbing (11): "natural drain-pipes"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

Gullies might be described as chimneys on the biggest scale. They are the great rifts that split the faces of most precipitous mountains, and they vary in steepness considerably. Their interest lies mostly in overcoming the pitches which are formed where huge boulders, often as big as a small house, have fallen and become jammed between the walls.

The Devil's Kitchen (Snowdonia) with Llyn Idwal and Lake Ogwen below.
Photo from G D Abraham, The Complete Mountaineer.

Some of these are very impressive with the tremendous overhanging capstones looming overhead, often over a hundred feet high-and a deep black cave receding far under the great boulder. There are gullies of all shades of difficulty, and many abound in short, easy pitches most adaptable to beginners. They generally have the merit of giving a definite route, for having once entered into their recesses, any exit, except at the summit, may be more or less impossible.

Gully climbing has immense fascination and variety, but it should be unmistakably understood that it is almost entirely a development of British climbing. Gullies in the Alps are likely to be dangerous death-traps, for they are the natural drain-pipes down which the great peaks send their refuse. No climbing skill can avail against falling stones and ice; they are to be avoided. Apart from human agency, in British gullies the only falling thing usually encountered is falling water, though the writer's party once had a narrow escape from a falling bedstead. This was in the Great Gully on Snowdon, which has been spoilt by becoming the rubbish-shoot for the summit hotel.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

Tales of past and present (2)

Continued: A talk about the foreign explorers of Japan’s mountains, then and now.

So times had changed. We’re now in the Taishō era (1912–26). In these years huts were built, paths were made and guide associations formed. Now everybody could go to the mountains. JAC members started to do pioneer work abroad – notably Maki “Yūkō” Aritsune (1894–1989) on the Eiger’s Mittellegi Ridge in 1921, and on Mt Alberta in 1925.

Maki Yuko returns from the Eiger with his guides, September 1921

What were the foreigners doing at this time? Well, some joined the JAC – the club’s records must be very interesting on this topic. According to Hamish Ion, a mountain historian, within a year of the JAC’s foundation there were eleven foreign members (not all of them English) two were Anglican clergymen, like Weston, two were university teachers, and the rest were businessmen in Yokohama, Tokyo and Kobe.

Foreign women too joined: Mrs Frances Weston and Mrs Emily Elwin became members before 1923. Also, two lady missionaries were introduced by your founder member Takano Takazō and Kondō Shigekichi (1883–1969), who had studied at Glasgow University.

Interestingly, when Mrs Weston went back to England, she wasn’t able to join Britain’s Alpine Club – instead she had to join the Ladies Alpine Club founded in 1907 by the hard-driving Mrs Elizabeth Aubrey LeBlond, the pioneer winter alpine climber and mountain photographer. Officially, of course, the JAC did not admit women until 1949 – but this was still a quarter of a century ahead of Britain’s Alpine Club (1974) and the Swiss Alpine Club (1980). This too was pioneer work.

H E Daunt, the "Bell Goat".

Some foreigners also founded their own association: the Mountain Goats of Kobe, who often trained on Rokkō-san. I’m not sure when the MGK started (some say 1911 as the Ancient Order of Mountain Goats), but its house journal Inaka first came out in 1915 and continued for almost a decade. It was edited by a Kobe resident and oil company employee, H E Daunt. 

Daunt was a golfer before he was a mountaineer. As a member of the Kobe Golf Club, the first Japanese golf club, opened in 1913, he won the Japanese amateur championship in 1915. In May 1919, he helped to design Korea’s first-ever golf course, describing his experience in Inaka (1923). Visiting Seoul at the invitation of the South Manchurian Railway Company in May 1919, he helped Mr Inohara, the general manager of the Chosun Hotel, set out the course.

Is it perhaps an exquisite coincidence that there are just 18 volumes of Inaka, like the 18 holes of a golf round?

As you can see, Inaka was well produced – it was printed by a local newspaper company. Alas, even single volumes of Inaka are very rare and expensive - complete sets are even rarer: I only know of two: one in London and one in Kobe – I hope one day it will be reprinted or at least a selection of articles. There is some good stuff in there, for example, an eyewitness account of the 1915 Yake-dake eruption by J Merle Davis, an American missionary, in Inaka Vol II, 1915.

The eruption of Yake-dake in 1915.

By the way, many, perhaps most, of the leading MGK members were also members of the JAC. And for a number of years after the first world war, H E Daunt edited the English-language supplement of Sangaku, the JAC’s journal.

The MGK were not the only show in town. At one point, more than a third of the members of the Kobe toho-kai (神戸徒歩会) were foreigners, and its journal Pedestrian carried articles in English as well as Japanese. The Kobe toho-kai was founded in 1910 as the Kobe Waraji-kai (神戸草鞋会).

Of course, clubs are never the whole story ...

(Continued)

First steps to climbing (10): "that is what the rope is for"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

It is not unusual to meet a would-be climber whose ideas of the use of the rope are peculiar. 

On the Western Buttress of Lliwed.
Detail of photo in G D Abraham, The Complete Mountaineer. 

A friend was recently taking a beginner up the south-east gully on Great End, and having reached the top of the first pitch he hauled in the rope and called down to the novice, "Come on!" "All right," was the reply. But nothing happened, and the dialogue was repeated. Then the leader became anxious and asked if his charge was indisposed. "No!" came the reply, "I'm waiting for you to pull me up. Surely that's what the rope is for!" Thus it may be advisable here to deal with the practical elements of rock climbing…

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

First steps to climbing (9): "selfishness must be curbed"

Advice for tyro mountaineers from the nineteen-twenties

If the leader is selected, and in some situation finds himself unable to surmount a certain crucial difficulty, there should be no question of another member of the party taking his place. Numerous catastrophes have been due to this. 

Climbing slabs on the Charmoz.
Photo from G D Abraham, The Complete Mountaineer.

The terrible fall of four experts on the face of Scawfell Pinnacle followed the change of leadership. Undoubtedly the right man was leading on this occasion. Why he changed places and allowed a less experienced companion to attempt the desperate ascent of the hitherto unclimbed pitch where he had failed is a mountain mystery which will never be solved. 

There may be a temptation to forget this advice on easier climbs, but its soundness is undoubted at all times. The beginner should be orthodox on this point, and if his friends have the right spirit of true mountain comradeship, the happiness and success of his and their climbing career will be promoted. 

Selfishness must be curbed. Once the rope is tied on, the party becomes a human unit with a purpose to overcome some of the strongest of Nature's forces. Every member must do his best, and the greatest joys of climbing are when, with the summit attained, each one feels that he has had a share in promoting success.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.