First steps to climbing (2): “cheap ropes are an abomination”

"A safe straight pull on a steep buttress ..."
Image and caption from First Steps to Climbing

The equipment of the climber, especially in his early stages, is very often a matter of fads and fancies. The actual necessities are few. Yet they must be of the very best quality and most suitable for the purpose required. Cheap ropes, for instance, are an abomination, and numerous fatal accidents have been caused by their use…

Of equal and even greater importance is the climber himself – his individual equipment, both mental and physical. The writer holds strong views that climbing is only suitable for those who have reached the age of discretion. Boys may be taken out by their experienced elders, but before the age of twenty-one serious work, such as leading, should not be undertaken. The question of over-straining the bodily powers, though this may prove serious, is not in mind here, but rather the youthful lack of responsibility. The sad records of any public school which has bird-nesting crags within convenient reach will accentuate this.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.

First steps to climbing (1): “no great danger is likely”

On Milestone Buttress, Tryfan (North Wales)
Image from First Steps to Climbing

How shall I start climbing? This question is constantly asked, and the answer is not easy. Formerly the writer used to advise the beginner who is alone to go to Wastdale and engage Josef Gaspard for a series of expeditions. In his native Dauphiné, the well-known guide has now married a wife and cannot come. In due course a successor may emerge.

Undoubtedly the best plan is to begin on the homeland mountains, and the only place where professional help is at present available is at Sligachan in Skye. At that capital centre, members of the McKenzie family are still available and no great danger is likely under their tutelage. Moreover, the Coolin are probably the best mountains in Britain on which the beginner may learn not only cragmanship, but also real mountaineering ….

But ‘tis a far cry to Skye, and the writer usually recommends Wastdale Head in Cumberland as the best starting-ground. At all holiday seasons, the world-famous hotel is well filled wilh enthusiasts, and by making himself mildly agreeable, the would-be climber will find his friendliness requited. There are usually plenty of men who will take an interest in a keen beginner, and he will soon be invited to join some party or other. … Moreover the landlord at Wastdale Head has a fine knowledge of climbs and climbers, and if asked to do so can usually place the inexperienced in good hands …

For a party of beginners the most effective plan, and that which really produces the best climbers, is to tackle the rocks unaided and rely on their own initiative. Perhaps most enjoyment and satisfaction may be thus attained, and in this way many of the leading experts have developed.

References

From George D. Abraham, First Steps to Climbing, Mills & Boon, Limited, London, 1923.